Whether you are at a wedding, the museum, or just headed out for brunch with your friends, a plaid sport coat or vest is ideal.
The look is much less uptight than an evening look in black, and much less of a purely “business” look than navy.
Because so many weddings today are in outdoor settings, plaid (along with seersucker and sporty tropical wools) has become one of our most popular looks for grooms.
Each piece that we make is completely custom made.
You choose the colors and the look and we work with you to design the perfect piece.
They are cut to fit you precisely.
You send measurements (which are easy to take at home) and we cut and sew muslin mock-ups for you to try on.
You send us a few digital pics and your comments and then we revise the piece to fit you perfectly.
The first set of pictures shows a gorgeous 3pc plaid outfit where all of the pieces are coordinated to provide an amazing look.
The jacket is cut from a brushed flannel fabric with red, brown and aqua as the primary colors in the plaid.
The vest is cut from a burgundy flannel with a vintage workingman’s style and the pants are cut from an iridescent wool with elements of brown, blue, and green.
The pink and brown jacket (shown here are the autumn wedding that it was created for) is an example of how when the colors are well chosen even a very bold plaid blends in and compliments its surroundings.
Indeed plaid functioned as an early version of camouflage and is still the choice of many traditional sportsmen.
This suit was cut for a groom who also wanted to be able to wear the suit to many work related events in the legislative world.
We designed a suit with subtle western touches. The jacket has early 20th century style cuffs (which we cut on the bias for maximum effect), a ticket pocket, and a decorative handwork buttonhole on the lapel.
The charcoal and maroon check suit pictured shows an exception to the thought that plaid fabrics are primarily for daytime wear.
This suit was made for a jazz musician to wear while playing in the evening and while conducting business by day.
Overall, the suit combines mod and Victorian details to create an impression that is unique and very contemporary. This jacket also has sportsman’s cuffs which can be easily rolled up when playing an instrument.
While all of the other suits shown here are cut from wool, this suit was cut from a cotton blend as the customer is a vegan and prefers not to wear any animal products. The inner canvas and buttons are also animal product free.
The final look is a vest and pant outfit that draws upon the sporting looks of the Edwardian era.
This outfit is made from a wool/silk blend with a rich and complex glen plaid. The back of the vest is cut from tan linen that keeps you feeling dry in the summer heat.
The vest is cut with a wide pointed shawl collar that wraps around the back of the neck and the pants are cut with a wide 1920s style cuff.
This suit was made for summer and fall weekends, brunches and BBQs when something awesome and unique was needed, but when it seemed too hot and stuffy to wear a jacket.
All of our pieces are handmade one at a time here in our studio in Denver, Colorado.
So if you are thinking about a suit, jacket, or vest, please contact us so we can sketch some ideas for you and put together some swatches.
We make pieces for customers all over the world.
To contact us, send an email to AJ (email@example.com).
For every suit that we make, we start with the client and his own sense of style.
We ask him where he will wear the piece.
We ask him what kinds of motions he will be making, whether he will be dancing or reaching across a desk or sitting on a barstool with his jacket buttoned.
And then we mine the rich history of menswear for details from the past that can be dragged into the present and recreated to fit within the thick context of his individual life.
We do not set out to create something new.
But this newness is never merely superficial or contrived.
It is instead filled with meaning; it carries its past within it; it is purposeful.
This post showcases some of our unique recent pieces.
This suit combines details from many eras to create a suit that is perfect for business, pleasure,—and getting married in.
The fabric is a gorgeous wool twill with bright white stripes.
The pleats in the back above and below the back belt on the suit give the suit an “action back”.
This keeps the suit feeling slim while allowing for lots of extra movement in the back when driving, operating a mouse, or shuffling papers around on a desk.
The hip pockets are hacking flaps, which make for easy entry and comfortable slouching, but they are further accessorized with buttons which help to contain items of importance when the jacket is tossed upon a bed.
The shapes of the pocket flap and the cuffs are in one of the more interesting and distinct nineteen teens/early 20s styles and give the pieces a slight aura of dandyism despite the business-like orientation of the pieces.
The jacket and the vest are cut with peak lapels and are single breasted. Like all of our “1909 Bespoke” suits, this jacket is finished with hand pick-stitching and distinctive vintage handwork tacks.
We also made the shirt, tie, and the tropical wool wedding gown shown, and always enjoy the chance to make as many pieces as possible for a special event or performance.
The next suit is almost completely different. This piece, cut from a more finished black and navy basketweave tweed, is an utterly fitted “Mod” piece that has more of a 1960s look to it.
This jacket is styled with a wide upper collar but narrow lapels. It has traditional hacking flap pockets with a ticket pocket and is finished with crowsfoot tacks on the pocket flaps and a simple handworked buttonhole on the lapel in navy.
These buttons, like the buttons on the jacket, are a brown, rather than navy horn, all of which adds to the deliberate retro look of the piece.
The pants are slim “boot cut” low-rise pants with L-shaped jean pockets. This detail gives the suit a sporty look and allows for a highly fitted seat.
L-shape pockets are also excellent for holding your keys versus standard slash pockets should you decide to take a rest on the grass.
The third suit (a tan herringbone flannel) is a unique take on daytime formalwear. With this piece we wanted to do something that had the formality of a tuxedo but would work for daytime and outdoor events.
We wanted something that felt a lot more modern than a morning coat, but still felt pretty traditional. The design combines some Gatsbyesque 1920s details with a “space-age” 1960s look.
The lapels on the vest are made from a silk duppioni in cream, and the handworked boutonnière on the jacket is in a slightly contrasting tan. The pockets have an angle-cut hacking flap.
The result is what we think of as “Garden Party” formal.
The next suit is in a classic silver pinstripe wool. It is “tropical weight” with a dry hand. All of this makes for a piece that is highly breathable.
The customer was looking for a suit for traveling, and a quite matte fabric like this has excellent wrinkle resistance.
The pants are based on a favorite pair of boot cut jeans that the client mailed to us. This allowed us to get the ideal fit that he wanted and to make sure that the piece looked good with his cowboy boots.
Although some books on “dress etiquette” prescribe a vest that always covers the pant waistband, we went with a Western cut for this that would prominently display the client’s belt buckle in the notch of the vest hem. The jacket also has cuffs, which are easily rolled up when feeling hot.
The final suit in this listing is cut from a gorgeous 2-ply wool pinstripe.
The client wanted a suit that would work for business but also a suit that didn’t feel stuffy or basic and could be worn for special occasions.
The style that we ended up designing is a classic 2-button business suit, but with a Mod-style angled cutaway hem and pointed flap pockets.
This pocket style was found on many early 20th century sportswear jacket styles and on some Western and 1970s styles.
Incorporating a flap like this into a modern suit creates a piece that utterly resists the look of an “stuffy old man” business suit, while otherwise retaining the classic and traditional look.
If you are considering a suit, please drop me a line via email (firstname.lastname@example.org) and we can talk more.
All of these suits are “muslin fit.” Which means that we cut and sew cotton mock-ups of the suit and mail these to you to try on. You send us your feedback and also digital pics; and we analyze the pictures to achieve a great fit that matches your personal send of style. We make the majority of our suits for clients that are outside of Colorado and often outside of the US—But we love local clients as well.
The pictures of the wedding with the black pinstripe suit were taken by photographer Kevin Fung. You can check out more of his amazing work here.
The coats are cut from gorgeous wools, cashmeres, camel hairs and alpaca fibers.
It is utilitarian, of course, and many of our coats are based on styles that were originally designed for military wear, but also fitted and highly-tailored and constructed in such a way that stylizes the body.
Unlike most other pieces of clothing, an overcoat is a piece that one might wear over 100 times a year.
For clients who take care in their every day dress, no single piece of clothing is as important for making an impression—particularly for those of us who live in climates with colder winters.
All of our coats are made to order and every coat is unique.
You send us your measurements and a little bit about your general sense of style and the colors that you like and we start sketching ideas until we find the perfect look.
Finally, we draft a completely unique pattern for you and cut and sew the coat based on this pattern.
The result is something that is completely yours and makes just the impression that you are hoping to make when you step out on the street.
The light brown herringbone coat is cut from a wool/cashmere herringbone fabric with thick horn buttons. This style features a 1920s style breast pocket, a skirt with a triple back pleat, small peak lapels, a quilted undercollar, and hip welt pockets.
The heather grey twill coat features classic trenchcoat style lapels and epaulettes, along with handwarmer pockets on the chest, patch pockets with flaps, and a double-breasted style with straight rows of buttons.
The fabric is a thick twill flannel.
The next coat is made from a very heavy and plush Irish donegal tweed with flecks of white, silver, and black.
This coat features a zipper breast pocket and a patch pocket on the sleeve. Note that this coat also is cut without cuffs, but with belts on the sleeves that allow the sleeves to be sucked in on the wrists.
These details give the coat a more modern but also quite military look. The coat is also cut with a full skirt and triple back pleat—details that add to the dramatic flair of the coat.
The navy blue coat with the purple lining is another example of a trenchcoat—-this one again in a gorgeous herringbone flannel. A subtle navy color like this one, keeps the coat from blending in too much and lends a more fashionable look to the piece.
Recently, there has also been a lot more interest in caped coats as coats with capes have shown up more and more on the runway.
The black coat with the double cape is an historically inspired coat that takes many of the best details from the 18th century great coat and sharpens them up a bit to create an amazing and durable piece that is ready for the coldest weather.
The style is cut with hip welt pockets and uniquely shaped button tabs.
The fabric on this piece is a 20 ounce melton wool and the cape and body are lined in a heavy red satin.
The final set of photos show a camel hair Victorian-style fur shell coat (here shown with a faux fur). The camel hair fabric is a felted plush fabric that is incredibly thick and warm.
Adding the faux fur on the entire facing of a double-breasted coat creates a piece that is incredibly warm and luxurious. The entire facing and back collar has been pick-stitched by hand for added flatness and beauty.
We would love to design and make a coat for you. We can’t take very many coat orders each year, so definitely order in advance of when you need it and discuss the timeframe with us so that we make sure that we have enough time to work your coat in.
To get started on a custom coat send an email to: email@example.com
We make custom tailcoats.
Classic 1930s, Edwardian, Steampunk, a bit retro, a bit modern.
Just let us know what you are looking for and we will start sketching and putting fabrics together.
This means that we mail you a mock-up of the pieces sewn in cotton so that you can try them on before we make the final garments.
The pics show some of our most recent outfits.
The tailcoat is a classic open front style with silk shantung lapels that add a beautiful sheen to the look.
This means that we can design something exactly in your style with all of the right details to match the look you are going for.
The black tailcoats show two different versions of our classic open front tailcoats.
This tailcoat has a pointed hem and wide lapels made from gorgeous silk grosgrain.
It is shown with a handmade backless white cotton pique vest, a bibbed detachable collar white pique shirt, and bowtie.
The other black tailcoat has smaller peak lapels, also made from silk grosgrain, and a straight cut hem for a look that is both Edwardian and very modern.
The chocolate brown tailcoat is cut from a wool gabardine with wide grosgrain lapels, also in chocolate, brass buttons, and a silk duppioni lining.
The grey pinstripe military tailcoat was made for a steampunk wedding.
The navy blue tailcoat (shown with a seersucker vest) shows another version of our popular military tails.
The final pics show a black lambskin tailcoat with embossed cuffs and side laces.
If you are thinking about ordering a tailcoat or complete ensemble, just contact us (firstname.lastname@example.org) so that we can talk about your project and start getting together fabrics to mail to you.
If you aren’t sure quite which details you like, just tell us a bit about yourself and the events that you will attend and we will start sketching.
Be sure to check out the websites of the amazing photographers who took the photos above! For more pics of the elephant gray suit, check out Old South Photography here. For pics of the amazing white tie wedding, check out David Tero Photography here. For pics of the tailcoat in brown with aqua silk details, check out Joyeuse Photograpy here.
Our completely custom line of suits–which are individually handmade to order right here in our studio in Denver, Colorado–often have a vintage flair to them.
Philosophically, our suits hark back to what we consider to be the most interesting period for men’s dress—the period between 1907 and 1921–when many of the distinctive looks of modern dress had been established, but before everything became entirely normalized by the advent of mass production in menswear.
At this point, suits were still meant to convey individuality and to express tastes, habits, and activities.
Although pocket styles have always been as much about conveying to others what one might put in such pockets as they are about functionality, one could, as it were, express more things which such details than one can today.
Our latest generation of suits strives to be distinctively contemporary in its look and functionality, while, at the same time, drawing upon the richest period of our history.
We also incorporate a vocabulary of vintage handwork into these pieces. The corners of pockets are tacked with crowsfoot and D-tacks.
Hand pick-stitching and lapel treatments add an aura of the handmade to the pieces.
Cuffs can be functional or highly decorative.
Our signature cutaway style is perfect for those times when you need to roll up your sleeves because of the heat or because a piece of machinery is in need of repair.
In this posting, I have put up pictures of many of our favorite recent suits.
The fabric is a wool sateen with tons of sheen, and the details are drawn from a host of amazing vintage pieces.
This suit (like the navy suit with 3 buttons and the bold plaid cotton summer suit) are “One Button Suits”.
Although each of these suits has 3 buttons on the front, only the top button functions. The other 2 buttons are left undone so that the vest shows below the cutaway shape.
“One Button” suits are by far the slimmest, most elongating silhouette around, but are impossible to find in shops.
The navy 2 button suit (made from basketweave tweed) pictures illustrate our signature shoulder style.
Here the shoulder seam is pushed back to form a distinctive look with more visual interest in the back panels. The fronts have hacking flaps with crowsfoot tacks and a handmade lapel buttonhole.
The pictures of the white suit show a distinctive turn of the 20th century take on the summer suit, with narrow cuffs, patch pockets and peak lapels.
The light grey plaid suit shows a look with hacking flaps and our cutaway style in a two button look. This suit also featured contrast coral collar melton.
Also note the wide contour waistbands on many of these suits. This detail allows us to shape the waist as much as necessary for comfort and a perfect fit.
We can currently make fewer than 50 of our completely custom “1909 Bespoke” suits per year (although we can make many more pants and vests).
So if you are thinking of ordering a suit for a wedding or time-sensitive event, let us know as soon as possible.
We muslin fit each of these suits. For non-local customers, this means that we will mail you a cotton mock-up of the suit to try on.
Contact AJ@denverbespoke.com for more info, and so that we can get started working on a custom design for you.
The initial set of engagement photographs is by amazing Denver and Fort Collins Colorado area photographer Sarah Christine Photography (www.sarahchristinephotography.com/) be sure to check out her work and to choose her to photograph your wedding.