Waxed Cotton Motorcycle VestThere is something about waxed cotton that feels so different than other weather-resistant fabrics.Waxed Cotton
More authentic.  Less modern or plastic-y or tacky.

Like pull-up leather, waxed cloth changes a bit each time you wear it.  It scratches and cracks and then the cracks begin to fade.

It is sort of like having your history written in the fabric—the patina of your every motion.

It feels like having a trusty leather jacket that is more waterproof and a much lighter weight.

Black Waxed Cloth JacketWaxed cotton began as a material that sailors wore.Grey Waxed Cotton Field Jacket

Sailors first realized that dipping their sails in water made their boats faster when less air could get through.

Later oils and waxes were tried as something more permanent.Black Waxed Cloth Field Jacket

And what could be more natural than for a sailor to wear the sail cloth when he wanted to stay dry and keep out the wind?

We wax cloth in house starting with fine American cotton and hot dipping the fabric in beeswax, paraffin and natural oils.Black Waxed Cotton Jacket
Waxed Cotton Blazer

Depending on how we balance the oils and waxes the fabric can take on more or less patina with wear.

The waxes darken the color of the fabric significantly, but when the wax is scratched or cracked, the original lighter colors are “pulled-up” in the patina.1920s Jacket

This distressing is called “crazing”.

The pictures show some of our favorite recent pieces—-our classic travel blazer with vintage style patch pockets, two button lapels, and a throat tab.

A charcoal grey field jacket with a stand-up collar, neck belts, heavy quilted elbow padding, and back gussets.

Our famous military inspired motorcycle vests.

And a 1920s style shawl collar jacket with a half-lining, piped seams, and a kidney to close up the neck.

We are one of the only tailors in the world making fully custom pieces from waxed cloth.

If you can imagine it, we can almost always make it.

We start by sketching, and then work with you to discuss sizing, fabrics, colors, and buttons until we have exactly the right materials.

We work with clients all over the world.

So if you are thinking of a waxed cloth field jacket, work jacket, travel blazer, vest—-or any style you can think of—-we are the ones to make it for you.

Contact us and we can discuss the details.

Denim Blue Bespoke SuitBusiness attire doesn’t need to be uninteresting or nondescript.
Even in the most conservative settings, subtle details and a great fit can set your look apart.

Every year we work with clients from all walks of life—from artists and performers who need to express their individuality in the boldest fashion—to lawyers and bankers for for whom a more strict dress code applies.

For an artist, or someone in a creative field, a bold plaid may be called for.  For a banker, we can look closely at the sheen and drape of the fabric and the subtle details of the prick-stitching and hand-tacking of pocket ends.

Tabbed Suit Cuff Denim BlueDenim Blue 3pc Suit PinstripedOn every piece that we make, we can examine and consider hundreds of possibilities from the most subtle to the most bold.

And in each case, we work with a client to get exactly the fit that he is looking for—-whether this means something that is as fitted as possible or something that has more of a classic drape.

Double Breasted Bespoke SuitThe suit pictured is cut from a Japanese woven heavyweight wool suiting in denim blue with a contrast linen vest.

The style features a somewhat cropped jacket length with a fitted silhouette.  The jacket has patch pockets, metal buttons, a curved placket, tabbed sleeve cuffs, and contrast top-stitching in rust color.

The pants are high-waisted with a fitted thigh and seat and a wide leg with a deep cuff.

All of these details give the suit a contemporary “mod” look that is both business-ready and also sporty, durable, and wrinkle free.

But this is just one option from thousands of possible suits.

We work with you from initial sketches and swatches to a muslin fitting (where we mail you a cotton mock-up of the suit to try on and you send digital pics), so that we can be sure we are building exactly the suit you are looking for at every stage.

Each year we work with clients all over the world who are looking to build something unique.  All of our suits are made here in our studio in Denver, Colorado.

Contact us so that we can discuss making a suit for you.

Smoking Jacket Tuxedo

It is time to look for something fresh.

Something, dare I say, fun.

The old formalwear is dead and gone.

After decades of being stuck in an endless repeat, formalwear is back to what is was in the earlier 20th century and before:

A chance to show distinction and individuality. Charm.  Even a sense of humor.

A man either knows who he is or he doesn’t.  And the man who knows who he is is less concerned with rules than with expression.

Whether you are attending black tie events on a regular basis or looking for something unique to wear to your wedding, choosing black and white tie attire is a chance to examine your tastes, your personality, and the things that you appreciate.Shawl Collar Brocade Tuxedo

Paisley Brocade Smoking JacketLooking fashionable is always about looking to tradition and finding the elements that are most relevant to the present.

In the images attached to this post, we looked variously to the Victorian smoking jacket, the jacket cuffs of the 1920s, mid-20th century resort dinner jackets, the fitted pants of the cavalry man, and military double-breasted waistcoats.

The result is a little bit of the gentleman.  A little bit of the rogue.Black Dragon Brocade Vest

Ready for a wedding.  And for the party after the wedding.

The first jacket is cut from a napped chenille brocade with silk velvet lapels, cuffs, and pocket welts.

The jacket is paired with a wool gabardine rocker pant with a velvet tuxedo stripe and a silk velvet topper trimmed with cock feathers.

A pointed back collar and pointed cuffs, give the piece a bit of extra character.

The jacket is utterly fitted with a frock waist seam that gives it a slight hourglass look.

The next tuxedo pictured is cut from 11oz wool gabardine in navy with heavy silk grosgrain lapels and 1920s style cuffs.

The jacket is shown with a silk brocade vest in a double breasted style with a high neck and a trouser with a tuxedo braid on the outseam.

But these pieces are just examples of what we can do.

All of our tuxedos are completely custom made for each client, starting with unique sketches that we do based on your thoughts and sourcing the finest fabrics from around the world.

Most of our tuxedos are “muslin fit.”

This means that we cut and sew cotton prototypes of the garments and mail them to you.  Then you send us digital pictures and your comments and we fine tune the patterns and look to suit you perfectly.

We make suits for clients who are looking for something distinctive all over the world.

Contact us to discuss your custom thoughts and ideas.