Mongolian Lamb Collar Great Coat

Every coat that we make is built from scratch and based on a custom pattern that is drafted to fit the needs of the client.
Add a pocket, change the button placement, add a leather undercollar, remove the cuff or just slightly change the profile of the cuff to get the look you want—we can do virtually anything and will sketch ideas until we get the look just right.
One of our specialties is the full length heavy wool coat.

A full length coat is like nothing else for staying warm and looking stylish—the one and the other are both so important to the military heritage of the wool overcoat—-saving one from freezing on winter campaigns and allowing one to look good while riding at the head of the troops.

Mongolian Lamb Wool Melton Greatcoat greyMany of the fabrics we use are literally the same fabrics in the same weights from the same mills that made fabrics for the British campaigns against Napoleon and for the Union in the American Civil War.

These heavyweight meltons and doeskins don’t pill and hardly wear.

They were designed for an age in which life was short but a good coat would last for several generations.

The grey coat shown in this listing is made from a 25oz wool melton with a Mongolian lamb collar.

The piece is cut with vintage frock or paletot seaming that allows for a highly shaped waist with a skirt that flares at the hips.

The pockets are Edwardian US Marine Corps style and this source of inspiration is repeated in the seamed on cuff detailing.Military Trenchcoats in Wool Melton

A narrow back belt and back box pleats complete the look.

Contrast details include white top-stitching, blue buttonholes, a blue undercollar, under pocket flap, and underbelt and a kidney (neck latch) with one grey and one blue side.Greatcoat Close-up

The best way to get started is to Contact Us with any thoughts and questions you may have.

At that point we can start sketching ideas and sourcing fabrics for you.

We can get virtually any type of outerwear fabric, leather, or fur.

And we can make a coat with the details inspired by any era.

Every year we make coats for clients located all across the world.

Once you realize that you don’t have to be cold to look awesome, your winter days will be transformed.

Waxed Cotton Motorcycle VestThere is something about waxed cotton that feels so different than other weather-resistant fabrics.Waxed Cotton
More authentic.  Less modern or plastic-y or tacky.

Like pull-up leather, waxed cloth changes a bit each time you wear it.  It scratches and cracks and then the cracks begin to fade.

It is sort of like having your history written in the fabric—the patina of your every motion.

It feels like having a trusty leather jacket that is more waterproof and a much lighter weight.

Black Waxed Cloth JacketWaxed cotton began as a material that sailors wore.Grey Waxed Cotton Field Jacket

Sailors first realized that dipping their sails in water made their boats faster when less air could get through.

Later oils and waxes were tried as something more permanent.Black Waxed Cloth Field Jacket

And what could be more natural than for a sailor to wear the sail cloth when he wanted to stay dry and keep out the wind?

We wax cloth in house starting with fine American cotton and hot dipping the fabric in beeswax, paraffin and natural oils.Black Waxed Cotton Jacket
Waxed Cotton Blazer

Depending on how we balance the oils and waxes the fabric can take on more or less patina with wear.

The waxes darken the color of the fabric significantly, but when the wax is scratched or cracked, the original lighter colors are “pulled-up” in the patina.1920s Jacket

This distressing is called “crazing”.

The pictures show some of our favorite recent pieces—-our classic travel blazer with vintage style patch pockets, two button lapels, and a throat tab.

A charcoal grey field jacket with a stand-up collar, neck belts, heavy quilted elbow padding, and back gussets.

Our famous military inspired motorcycle vests.

And a 1920s style shawl collar jacket with a half-lining, piped seams, and a kidney to close up the neck.

We are one of the only tailors in the world making fully custom pieces from waxed cloth.

If you can imagine it, we can almost always make it.

We start by sketching, and then work with you to discuss sizing, fabrics, colors, and buttons until we have exactly the right materials.

We work with clients all over the world.

So if you are thinking of a waxed cloth field jacket, work jacket, travel blazer, vest—-or any style you can think of—-we are the ones to make it for you.

Contact us and we can discuss the details.

Denim Blue Bespoke SuitBusiness attire doesn’t need to be uninteresting or nondescript.
Even in the most conservative settings, subtle details and a great fit can set your look apart.

Every year we work with clients from all walks of life—from artists and performers who need to express their individuality in the boldest fashion—to lawyers and bankers for for whom a more strict dress code applies.

For an artist, or someone in a creative field, a bold plaid may be called for.  For a banker, we can look closely at the sheen and drape of the fabric and the subtle details of the prick-stitching and hand-tacking of pocket ends.

Tabbed Suit Cuff Denim BlueDenim Blue 3pc Suit PinstripedOn every piece that we make, we can examine and consider hundreds of possibilities from the most subtle to the most bold.

And in each case, we work with a client to get exactly the fit that he is looking for—-whether this means something that is as fitted as possible or something that has more of a classic drape.

Double Breasted Bespoke SuitThe suit pictured is cut from a Japanese woven heavyweight wool suiting in denim blue with a contrast linen vest.

The style features a somewhat cropped jacket length with a fitted silhouette.  The jacket has patch pockets, metal buttons, a curved placket, tabbed sleeve cuffs, and contrast top-stitching in rust color.

The pants are high-waisted with a fitted thigh and seat and a wide leg with a deep cuff.

All of these details give the suit a contemporary “mod” look that is both business-ready and also sporty, durable, and wrinkle free.

But this is just one option from thousands of possible suits.

We work with you from initial sketches and swatches to a muslin fitting (where we mail you a cotton mock-up of the suit to try on and you send digital pics), so that we can be sure we are building exactly the suit you are looking for at every stage.

Each year we work with clients all over the world who are looking to build something unique.  All of our suits are made here in our studio in Denver, Colorado.

Contact us so that we can discuss making a suit for you.