Wool and Silk Morning SwallowtailEvery year, many of our clients choose to get married in tails.

Sometimes in classic white tie, sometimes in a swallowtail look or in one of our military or steampunk styles.

Tailcoats and morning coats have deep roots in tradition, but in the modern era can be some of the most unique and expressive pieces in menswear.

In recent decades, women would show up in wedding gowns and flamboyant ball gowns and men would show up in rented black suits.

Such is a poor way to honor the special events in one’s life.

But recently, we have seen more and more tailcoats at red carpet events as men have become more interested in dressing well.

Traditionally, the black tailcoat with a black double striped trouser and a matching white pique vest, shirt bib, and bowtie was the ultimate evening formalwear.

Morning Coat for WeddingFor the daytime, a black or charcoal morning coat—a frock coat that sometimes has a pronounced swallowtail or cutaway shape—with a charcoal striped pant, and a contrast vest, with either with a contrast formal cravat or bowtie was the way to go.

But dressing well is not so much about following the rules as it is about using tradition to express your individuality.

The pics show one of our most recent morning suits.

The cut of the coat is a hybrid of a swallowtail coat with the sharper, more angled shape of classic tailcoats.

The front shape is continuous along the placket, but then cuts away sharply back into a square tail.  It is my feeling that this shape feels more modern than a classic swallowtail.square tails tailcoat

All of the pieces tie in various shades of purple.
Victorian Peak Lapel Tailcoat

The tailcoat is cut from a black wool, but with silk lapel facings that wrap around to the wool edge which features rows of decorative buttonholes.  The silk is iridescent—charcoal grey woven with subtle purple.Purple Morning Coat with Awesome Cuff

The vest––cut from pale purple silk––features classic peak lapels and a low neck.

And the pant is made from a traditional morning stripe charcoal wool––but here the stripes are purple as well this time, a bold purple that is only visible when close.  Classic Morning Coat

The cut of the pants is a classic wide-leg pleated style with wide cuffs.Classic Morning Coat for Weddings

Finally, the 6″ top hat is cut from a subtle purple heather flannel that reads as charcoal grey at first glance with trim to match the morning coat.

We made everything in the pics except the shoes and the ivory handled walking stick (which belonged to my great great grandfather!).Colorado Bespoke Suits

So if you are considering a tailcoat, a morning coat, a top hat, or a vest definitely Contact Us so that we can talk more.

All of our pieces are custom made to your measurements, and with the full suits, we actually cut and sew mock-ups of the pieces to mail to you to try on, ensuring a perfect fit in the final garments.

Last year, we made suits for events all across the world.

So where ever you are located, we can make a suit for you.

Each piece is handmade one-at-a-time here in our studio in Denver, Colorado.

Denver Bespoke Pants

I love traditional tailoring.Jean Fit Dress Pant
But traditional tailoring can mean a lot of different things on different occasions.

Clients often ask me, “What do you wear?”  And my answer tends to be, “Well, I have a very interesting sort of job.”Denver Bespoke Pants

I meet with clients—where it is expected that I look as well dressed as possible.  I do a lot of work sitting—when sewing or writing emails, which wears out the seat and crotch of the pants.Jean Fit Colorado Made Pants

And I also do lots of active work—cutting, fixing machines, unloading boxes.

Vegan Dress PantsThis has meant that the clothing I make for myself has to have a durable activewear fit and to be easily cleanable (as the pants especially are often very dirty by the end of a day).

The pants in the pics show some of the pants I wear on a daily basis.

These “jean-fit” pants are trim and tailored and are top-stitched through the inseam, seat,and crotch.Denver Bespoke Suits

Furthermore, the front pockets are L-shaped jean style pockets that don’t gape open when cut with a trim and fitted seat.

The fitted seat and higher crotch make it easier to kneel (for example when taking measurements) and to spread my legs apart to a wider angle.Jean Fit Flannel Pant

The top-stitching means that even with a snug fit and a fine fabric, it takes longer for the pants to wear out and they are relatively “tear-proof” even when I am lifting something heavy.

These pants look great as part of one of our custom tailored suits.

But they are equally wonderful when worn as separates with a vest, a blazer, or one of our Editions ‘36 unstructured jackets.Bespoke Pant Colorado

The pants can be made from classic worsted wools, flannels, cottons, or even our vegan-friendly poly fabrics (that have the extra virtue of being washable as separates.)

Colorado Bespoke SuitNot that many of our clients have jobs that are quite like mine.  But many men today, especially creative professionals, enjoy an active lifestyle where movement and durability are of the utmost importance.

Each of our suits, pants, and vests is handmade one-at-a-time here in our studio in Denver, Colorado based on a unique pattern that we create just for you.Denver Bespoke Pants

This is particularly great if you are looking to have many pants made.Custom Pants Colorado

For long distance clients, this means that we first send you a cotton mock-up of a pair of pants.

Then you send us digital pics of yourself wearing the “muslin” and we refine the pattern to fit you exactly.  Then we can further refine the fit and detailing with each additional pair of pants until we get a pant that does exactly what you are hoping for it to do.

Contact us to discuss the perfect pant for you.

1920s Tweed VestWe are famous for our 1920s style vests.
The 1920s were a high point for waistcoats.1920s Tweed Vest
The vests of the period contain all of the classic details that would become more codified in the 1930s.
Linen Back Tweed VestBut in this earlier period there is still a wonderful flexibility and richness in style.
The images show some of our favorite 1920s style vests with emphasis on the “Workingman’s Style” pieces.  
Scottish Tweed Vest

Tweed Workingman's Vest

These pieces—that we make from heavy weight tweeds and melton wools—are perfect for an active lifestyle.Tweed Workingman's Vest

The pockets hold your tools (or memory sticks), the fabrics don’t rumple or crease, and the styles can be cut with linen backs for the ultimate breathability and comfort.
Moreover, each of our bespoke suits and vests is made one-at-a-time here in our studio in Denver, Colorado.
Not only do we take care to make sure that each piece is a work of art, but we can work with you to cut the vest exactly to your measurements and to pick the perfect style and fabric for you.
1920s Style Herringbone VestThe classic fabrics we use—which are often woven by hand in Scotland and Ireland–are built the way that fabrics were meant to be and make up into garments that weigh twice as much as made-in-Asia pieces where the only concern is making sure that the garments pack flat and weigh as little as possible for overseas shipping.
The process of making one of our classic “Denver Bespoke” vests, begins when you contact us by email (aj@denverbespoke.com) or through our Etsy shop (www.machetensons.etsy.com) to tell us a little bit about your sense of style and how you will be wearing the waistcoat.
Green Melton Workingman's VestThen we sketch up a vest just for you.

With A Custom Cap

The piece can be identical to something we already offer, or something totally and completely new.
Add or remove pockets, change the shape of the lapels, the fabric of the back or belts, the number of buttons—-work with us to get the design that is perfect for the way that you dress.

Next we send you a selection of fabrics and we keep looking until we find the fabric that is right for you.  

We can get thousands of fabrics for the vests.  So if you know that you want a flecked herringbone tweed in a cranberry color, for example, just let us know and we can likely find this for you.
We can also make many other garments.  So if you want a matching pant, fedora, or workingman’s cap, just let us know and these pieces can be created in virtually any style to match your vest.
Contact me (aj@denverbespoke.com) to talk more.