Category Archives: A.J.’s Complete Suit Guide

Fabrics By Scabal

We have recently had the privilege of working with several remarkable fabrics from Scabal. Scabal provides much of the finest English-woven cloth to tailors on Savile Row and around the world.  English cloth is instantly recognizable by its incredible finish and drape. Because these fabrics are produced in small volumes but in thousands of styles, […]

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What Suits A Wedding? Down With the Black Suit?

Ten years ago more than 2/3 of pictures we would see from weddings would show the groom and the groomsmen, often outdoors and during the day, wearing black tuxedos. Not that there is anything wrong with this! “Class,” “Sophistication,” “Snobbery,” however—whatever you want to call it—generally decrees against wearing a black suit during the daytime […]

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The Details are in Your Pocket

When opening a conversation with a bespoke tailor about a custom suit or sportcoat, one of the first questions you will be asked is “Do you have a preference on the pocket style?” A surprising number of men—even men who wear suits often—won’t have considered pocket styling before. This is for one of two reasons: […]

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How Bespoke is Your Bespoke?

What does “bespoke” mean?  Are some suits “more” or “really and truly” bespoke and others “less bespoke” or “bespoke in name only?” To ask this question is to wade into controversy.  Especially when new businesses are popping up every day with custom suit offerings of various quality and customization. Literally, the word “bespoke” just means […]

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A Vest?

When clients contact us online to order a suit––or make an appointment to meet with us about a suit here in our workshop in Denver, Colorado––one of the first questions we ask is, “Do you want a vest?” Around 75% of our clients answer “Yes.” Part of this is just the fact that most shops […]

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The Fit of Men’s Pants

Choosing the right pant fit and leg shape is one of the most important parts of getting the right look in a suit. Do you want to look more youthful, slim, and eager? Or is your style more one that connotes power and solidity? Is your style more traditional or is it more daring? In […]

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Jacket Lapels

Lapel Styles Lapels on a suit coat are supremely non-functional.  One could, indeed, do without them entirely without changing the function of the suit in any way. But fashion begins to grow rich and strange at the very moment that function stops.  Indeed one might best think of a lapel as a type of “fetish.”  […]

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Single or Double-Breasted?

On an overcoat or peacoat, a double-breasted style can serve to keep the wind out. It can make a significant difference as to whether you stay warm and dry. But on a suit jacket, the traditional role of a double-breasted style is to waste fabric and buttons. The first purpose of the double-breast is to […]

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An Introduction

The Complete Suit Guide An Introduction By A.J. Machete Custom tailored clothing is not for everyone. And most people will never desire to go to the trouble of having each and every piece of their wardrobe custom made. For the client (to say nothing of the tailor or dressmaker) having a garment made is a […]

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