FAQ

How do you ensure a perfect fit?

First we get a rough idea of your measurements. You can measure yourself or a suit that you have. We would be glad to help you through this process and to mail you a cloth measuring tape, or, if you are in the Denver area, to measure you in person.
But even the most perfect measurements do not guarantee a good fit. All of our bodies are different shapes and sizes, moreover, we have different postures. A suit made from measurements is no better than a ready-to-wear suit…. it is unlikely to fit every aspect of your body smoothly. To remedy this, we first make the suit from a rough cotton muslin fabric and send it to you for feedback and (digital) pics.
Through examining the way that the muslin wrinkles and pulls, we can get an excellent idea of your figure and posture. At this point, we adjust the pattern based on your feedback and our knowledge and begin to create a suit that fits perfectly.

What is your return policy?

Of course, we cannot allow returns on custom tailored pieces.—They are cut exactly to fit the body of the customer in question and styled with unique details at the customer’s request.
In the rare event that a customer is not quite satisfied with the fit or some other element of our work, we will refund the cost of return shipping so that the garments can be sent back to us and either reworked or remade until the fit and every aspect of the clothing is to the customer’s satisfaction.
With our dress shirts and vests (when not muslin fit) there is a slightly greater chance of there being fit issues. Nonetheless, the pieces are guaranteed to fit better than a store bought piece, and in cases where they do not, they will be altered or remade.

How do your suits compare with other bespoke or ready-to-wear suits?

We pride ourselves in three things:
1. Our ability to create pieces that are utterly unique and are styled in ways that make them as exciting and accomplished as those from the best designers.
2. Our ability to create a suit that fits far better than an off-the-rack suit even if one has chosen the best possible size and had the pieces professionally altered.
3. Our ability to keep the prices as low as possible by using the most efficient methods we can find for producing a high-quality garment and keeping our overhead almost impossibly low.
Our clients tend to be artists, performers, and small business owners who have strong feelings about clothing and dress in general and tend to be dissatisfied with what is readily available to the mass market, often preferring a bolder look, that shows a distinct sense of taste that does not strictly line up with any particular “designer” brand.
Our fabrics tend to be more distinctive than those used for ready-to-wear clothing and to be of a higher quality than suits that are comparably priced in any store. We can obtain almost any type and quality of fabric from jobbers in NY and LA who have some of the finest fabrics from around the world.
The inner construction and detailing on our suits tends to be closer to that of the designer ready-to-wear suits than that of a traditional Savile Row bespoke suit. A Savile row bespoke jacket famously requires 40 hours of handwork, while we estimate the average time spent on each 3-pc suit (including design time) to be approximately 40 hours.
After pouring hours of time into our design and patternmaking, we streamline construction and sew by machine whenever it is possible to do so and still produce a fabulous garment. Our suits made with superfine wools are, of course, given full canvas inner construction, but we take advantage of innovation whenever possible. We pride ourselves in being technologically advanced at every stage in the process from design to production to sales.
This allows us to produce a muslin fit garment (an incredible luxury) at a price that is a fraction of that of other clothiers and to do so entirely in the United States.
For those who care about choosing the details and crafting the style of their clothing, we know of no comparable value.

Who makes your clothing?

We do. A.J. and Lianna work on every project, from sketching the designs to making the patterns, the muslins, and the final garments. Who works on which aspect of each piece often depends on who has the most talent for a given task.

Do your jackets have functional cuff buttons?

Our basic jacket does not have functional buttons on the cuffs. Only the most expensive suits have them for the simple reason that they require a different method of constructing the sleeve vents, one which requires extra hand-sewing.
For customers who prefer this detail, we can make a jacket with functional cuffs for only $45 additional.

What is the difference between a “Bespoke” and a “Made-to-Measure” garment?

The dictionary definition of a “bespoke suit” is a suit that has been “spoken for” before it is made. In this sense, a bespoke suit and a made-to-measure suit are one in the same.
But many people play up the difference between these two types of suits, arguing that the word “bespoke” should be reserved for those suits for which a completely custom and individual pattern has been made, which are fitted at an intermediary stage (a basted fit), and which are made using Victorian era sewing techniques.
Our suits do not fit the traditional Savile row definition of “bespoke” but neither are they merely made-to-measure.
Rather than a formidable and ancient British tailoring house, we are something more like the costume department of a Hollywood studio crossed with a modern couture house. We can literally produce any style of garment, with any set of details, and our custom patternmaking skills are quite nearly unmatched in the world.
What differentiates us from every other tailoring house that we know of is our informed (and playful) design sense. We do not believe that there is a right way to make a suit or a right way to shape a lapel. Instead, we stand inside a tradition of costume and formal dress and look toward the future.
Crafting the perfect style has nothing to do with following “the rules.” There quite simply are no rules.
Instead there are a series of cultural references that mean within context, and our job is to create a work of art that means something incredible and unique within the context in which it will be received.
Because we truly design suits for customers (rather than urging customers to recreate themselves to fit into a somewhat imaginary British world of “taste”), our suits can lay claim to being bespoke in the truest sense. We work for hours crafting a custom design for every customer.–Because every customer lives and breathes in a unique place in the world.
We do, of course, make a wholly custom paper pattern for every customer and spend upwards of 5 hours crafting and revising the pattern for the body and style of the customer.  But for most of our suits, we do not do a “basted fit”. Instead we ship the customers a muslin version of the suit for feedback. This muslin, unlike a basted jacket, does not need to be returned to us. But the muslin (with digital photos) allows us to get a world class fit that goes far beyond that of any made-to-measure suit. And the couture tradition of muslin-fit garments is likewise one with a great tradition behind it.
Our relationship to Victorian sewing techniques is quite complicated. Particularly as we love the Victorian era and have been known to incorporate Victorian detail into our designs.
But the Victorian era that we love is one of technological innovation. One of science. One of progress. We believe in using the best methods possible, whether they were arrived at yesterday or 150 years ago.
Yes, we do use modern methods of garment construction (although everything can be done by hand upon request) and this allows us to keep the costs low and to keep providing garments that are wholly unique.

6 Responses to “FAQ”

  1. Chloe says:

    Hi there,

    I love everything that I’m reading. One thing I couldn’t find in the FAQ, though: I’m wondering how long the process usually takes? How far in advance (of a wedding, say) should the customer approach you?

    Many thanks,
    Chloë

  2. admin says:

    Hi Chloë,

    Thanks so much for writing. Part of the reason that we don’t have more about timing is that projects vary so much and that our schedule during wedding season can get backed up.

    My advice would be to contact us at least three months before a wedding or big event for a full suit and about two months in advance for a vest or tailcoat. There is always a chance that we can turn the pieces around quite a bit faster, but for weddings especially we like to allow plenty of time so that the pieces can arrive a full month in advance.

    Thanks for posting,

    A.J.

  3. Adam says:

    Hi–

    Looks great! I was going to ask about how long the process takes, but that was answered well. Thanks.

    But I don have another question. Maybe I missed it in looking through your website, but what about choosing fabric designs? Stripes vs. solids, and also what about the lining options for a vest/coat?

    Thanks!
    -Adam-

  4. admin says:

    Hi Adam,

    We can really make pretty much anything. So the first step is to drop me an email so I can put together some fabric swatches and sketches for you.

    Thanks much,

    AJ

  5. Do you make a wrap around collar vest in a single or double breasted? please let me know. clarence

  6. admin says:

    We can do them either way. For vests that are going to be worn under jackets, the tradition is to make the lapels end at the shoulder seams. That way you don’t end up with a big stack of collars against your neck. But for more sporty vests, we use a shawl collar technique so that the collars wrap around the back.

    In any case, all of our pieces are custom and we can make them pretty much any way you might want.

    Thanks so much,

    AJ

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