Mongolian Lamb Collar Great Coat

Every coat that we make is built from scratch and based on a custom pattern that is drafted to fit the needs of the client.
Add a pocket, change the button placement, add a leather undercollar, remove the cuff or just slightly change the profile of the cuff to get the look you want—we can do virtually anything and will sketch ideas until we get the look just right.
One of our specialties is the full length heavy wool coat.

A full length coat is like nothing else for staying warm and looking stylish—the one and the other are both so important to the military heritage of the wool overcoat—-saving one from freezing on winter campaigns and allowing one to look good while riding at the head of the troops.

Mongolian Lamb Wool Melton Greatcoat greyMany of the fabrics we use are literally the same fabrics in the same weights from the same mills that made fabrics for the British campaigns against Napoleon and for the Union in the American Civil War.

These heavyweight meltons and doeskins don’t pill and hardly wear.

They were designed for an age in which life was short but a good coat would last for several generations.

The grey coat shown in this listing is made from a 25oz wool melton with a Mongolian lamb collar.

The piece is cut with vintage frock or paletot seaming that allows for a highly shaped waist with a skirt that flares at the hips.

The pockets are Edwardian US Marine Corps style and this source of inspiration is repeated in the seamed on cuff detailing.Military Trenchcoats in Wool Melton

A narrow back belt and back box pleats complete the look.

Contrast details include white top-stitching, blue buttonholes, a blue undercollar, under pocket flap, and underbelt and a kidney (neck latch) with one grey and one blue side.Greatcoat Close-up

The best way to get started is to Contact Us with any thoughts and questions you may have.

At that point we can start sketching ideas and sourcing fabrics for you.

We can get virtually any type of outerwear fabric, leather, or fur.

And we can make a coat with the details inspired by any era.

Every year we make coats for clients located all across the world.

Once you realize that you don’t have to be cold to look awesome, your winter days will be transformed.

Military Collar CoatWe love to make full length overcoats and trench coats.

Because let’s face it, the coat you buy at the store is barely a coat—it just looks like one.

The fabric is too lightweight.

It hardly covers your neck and it ends a few inches above the knee.  Chances are it weighs less than 1 pound (versus the 5-6 pounds of many vintage overcoats).

The fabric is probably blended with acrylic and will pill after a few wears.

If you want to stay warm or go out in the elements, you will probably end up with some type of ski jacket or nylon puffer.

But you can’t wear that with a suit and it is only fashionable on the slopes.Peak Lapel Military Trenchcoat

Our coats—to say the least—are real coats.  The fabrics are heavyweight wool meltons from 23 ounces up to 32 ounces (shockingly warm!) or handwoven Scottish and Irish tweeds that are literally made the same way they were 130 years ago.

The lengths and the collars are generous, and everything is intended for a lifetime of wear.

The navy blue coat with the red undercollar is cut from a gorgeous 25 ounce melton with bullhide neck straps.

This style is unique in that it features fully convertible peak lapels.

This means that the coat lapels can be buttoned all the way up to the shoulder and the top collar can be worn popped up or folded down like a shirt collar.  Alternately the lapels can be worn folded with the top collar popped around the neck.

The style features a back half belt, a waist seam, and tall seamed on cuffs.Neck Latch on Trench Coat
Trench Coat back and cuffs

Like all of our coats, this was custom made for a client.  When you contact us, we work to design a coat that includes all of the details and elements that you might like.

We can always get hundreds of amazing coating fabrics.

The next set of pictures shows a coat that we made from an amazing handwoven English tweed.  The color is a dusty red interwoven with a deep navy blue.

Tweed Trench Coat with GunflapThis coat features many of the classic trench coat elements like a gun flap, epaulettes, wrist belts, and a “kidney” to close up the neck.

Other elements include top-stitched seams, gold piping on the lapels and belts, and a curved back yoke.

Finally here are a few more takes on the immortal military trench coat collar.

M-1912 GreatcoatThe pic of the beige coat shows a coat that we made that is modeled after the M-1912 greatcoat that US Marines wore during WWI.

This particular coat is made from an incredibly heavy 32 ounce wool melton with a highly felted nap.1912 Greatcoat US Marines

Defiance Daniel Craig CoatThe lapels on this coat don’t fold down quite as much as on later trenchcoats, but the style is meant to be buttoned up all the way to the neck for a distinctly vintage look.

The next set of pics shows a greatcoat that we made with a collar cut from salt and pepper shearling lambskin.

The coat is cut from a gorgeous wool boucle with a concealed front button placket and a back belt that pleats in the waist.

The final pic shows a coat that we made from Navy Doeskin wool with a detachable sheared beaver collar.Sheared Beaver Collar Greatcoat

Doeskin is a gorgeous velvety napped wool that Hainsworth fabrics in the UK is famous for.

This company, which has been making fabric since the 18th century supplies the fabrics for the Royal Guard and we can supply their fabrics on request.

Each coat that we make is totally custom and can be made from pretty much any fabric you can imagine.

So if you want a real winter coat that will keep you warm in high fashion, just contact us and we can get started designing a coat for you.