You want skins that will wear beautifully for years, aging, weathering, and gaining in character.
This means using full grain whole skins as a starting point.
Many cheaper jackets are made from split and bonded leathers or leather with the grain stamped onto it.
Here are a few pictures of recent jackets. The golden orange jacket is make from a full grain bull hide.
It is perhaps 2 to 3 times as heavy as your average jacket, but this makes for an ultra durable jacket that is appropriate for motorcycling.
The jacket is trimmed with shearling at the collar and bottom band.
Note the placement of the pattern pieces on the skin with spine of the bull running right up the back of the jacket, and the collar piece cut from the flank for maximal texture and flexibility. The jacket is lined in a durable cotton shirting.
The second jacket shown here is cut from full grain lambskin and hair calf.
The customer who ordered the jacket is an engineer who had very specific specifications for the look and designed the jacket with the unique half moon cutaways on the under arm, back gussets, and double zippers.
The black leather fencing vest in the third set of pictures has textured solid metal buttons. The vest is backed in a heavy cotton twill. This piece is also cut from heavy motorcycle weight leather for maximum protection.
All of our pieces can be fit with cotton muslins.
For this process, we make a rough draft of the pattern and cut and sew it in cotton before making the final piece.
For non-local customers, we send this to you first to try on.
You can send us your feedback on the style and fit along with digital pictures that will allow us to fine tune the final pattern before we even touch the leather.
We are a Denver-based fashion company that specializes in complex custom work.
Please contact A.J. directly (firstname.lastname@example.org) to discuss your own ideas for the ultimate leather piece.