Here are some pictures of a suit that Lianna and I designed awhile back. I wanted to make a suit that was similar to Victorian seaside and reefer suits, but that had a slightly more updated and modern fit.
The fabric I ended up choosing was a silk matka. This tweedy raw silk fabric (blended in this case with wool and viscose) had a herringbone weave and the look was just right for a seaside style suit but was also something that I could wear on the right occasions all year round.
For the lining, I chose an Asian brocade, which was in keeping with the Victorian theme and style of the suit but also had a “fun and casual” feel to it.
The styling of this suit is unique in so many ways. The button-through pockets, especially the button-through breast pocket, were details that I hadn’t seen on suits newer than the 1930s. The high square notched collar was also something that I hadn’t seen on any modern suits.
The inspiration for some of these features was the white reefer suit pictured at the right. This suit is in the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum (and is featured in this book).
Most double-breasted suits today have peak lapels (and I am not sure how this convention started) but the notch lapel on this suit is both thoroughly Victorian and rather mod (I can almost, but not quite see this suit as a product of 1960s London).
This is the type of project that we do best. A piece steeped in historical reference but also modern. A piece that will quickly be recognized as a product of thought, design and taste.
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