{"id":2283,"date":"2014-12-09T13:36:11","date_gmt":"2014-12-09T20:36:11","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/denverbespoke.com\/?p=2283"},"modified":"2014-12-09T13:38:23","modified_gmt":"2014-12-09T20:38:23","slug":"the-details-are-in-the-pockets","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/denverbespoke.com\/?p=2283","title":{"rendered":"The Details are in Your Pocket"},"content":{"rendered":"
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The Classic American Jacket: Horizontal Flap Pockets with Angled Breast Pocket<\/p><\/div>\n

When opening a conversation with a bespoke tailor about a custom suit or sportcoat, one of the first questions you will be asked is “Do you have a preference on the pocket style?”<\/p>\n

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The "Jetted" Tuxedo Pocket<\/p><\/div>\n

A surprising number of men—even men who wear suits often—won’t have considered pocket styling before.<\/p>\n

This is for one of two reasons:<\/p>\n

For men who began wearing suits in the 1990s, this is often because all of the suits that they own have exactly the same pocket styling: \u00a0Two horizontal double-besom style flap pockets.<\/p>\n

During the 1990s and into the late 2000s men’s suits didn’t really evolve much.<\/p>\n

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The "Patch Pocket"<\/p><\/div>\n

The main evolution in menswear was toward the ever-more-casual. \u00a0This lack of interest in men’s suits led to a reversion to the most generic.<\/p>\n

Not that there is anything wrong with horizontal flap pockets—-they remain among the most classic styles for business attire.<\/p>\n

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Hacking Pockets with Ticket Pocket<\/p><\/div>\n

The second reason that many men have not considered pockets is that, when made up, all of the details are so subtle.<\/p>\n

In the black and white sketches, the details look dramatic. \u00a0But when made up in a heather grey or navy, the details fade.<\/p>\n

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Pointed "Crown-Shaped" Hacking Pockets with 1920s Curved Breast Pocket<\/p><\/div>\n

Moving beyond the horizontal flap pocket, the two pocket styles that most American’s will be familiar with are the “Jetted” pocket and the “Patch Pocket”.<\/p>\n

A jetted pocket is a pocket identical to the basic flap pocket, but with the flap removed. \u00a0What is left is the upper and the lower “besom” or “piping.”<\/p>\n

Generally, this style is seen on tuxedo jackets and it can give the jacket a more formal, cleaner look.<\/p>\n

The sketch above for the “Jetted” look, shows a classic tuxedo look where the body is an superfine wool and the lapels and pocket besoms are in a silk satin or grosgrain.<\/p>\n

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Pointed Flap Pockets with Flap Breast Pocket<\/p><\/div>\n

In general, we do not recommend the jetted pocket except on tuxedos. \u00a0The jetted pocket has a tendency to gape open when the pocket is used to hold an object of any size or weight.<\/p>\n

On a flap pocket, the flap covers the gap, but jetted pockets on the outside of tuxedos are often left basted shut to assure the cleanest and most put-together look.<\/p>\n

A patch pocket, on the other hand, is the traditional casual daytime pocket.<\/p>\n

I say “casual,” but casual in a way that has very very little to do with the hoodies and tshirts that many men consider to be casual attire today.<\/p>\n

Instead, the patch pocket is actually more sophisticated than wearing a tuxedo in many cases. \u00a0If it is at all avoidable, one should never wear a tuxedo during the day. \u00a0Instead, a jacket or suit with patch pockets in a sporty fabric shows just the right amount of attention to dress for outdoor summer weddings.<\/p>\n

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Sporty Patch with Flap Pockets<\/p><\/div>\n

Midway between the patch pocket the traditional flap pocket is the “hacking pocket”. \u00a0A hacking pocket is a flap pocket that is angled backward on the body.<\/p>\n

Originally a detail from British riding attire, the hacking pocket as a long history in men’s sportswear and business attire especially in the British and Continental traditions.<\/p>\n

It tends to read as slightly more sporty, but also more sophisticated, than the standard horizontal flap pocket.<\/p>\n

One often sees the hacking pocket accompanied by a “ticket pocket.” \u00a0This additional pocket balances out the breast pocket on the left side and can be useful for smaller items that one needs to keep track of.<\/p>\n

Of course, these are only some of the possible pocket shapes and details from the long tradition of men’s formal, sport, and business attire.<\/p>\n

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Some 1920s Details<\/p><\/div>\n

For those who are more adventurous, we offer our signature curved breast pockets (a 1920s and 1930s sportswear detail) or crown-shaped pockets with pointed flaps (common in the military and sport jacket traditions).<\/p>\n

One should never be anxious about “over-doing” details when choosing a pocket shape—-to men who don’t care about suits, and to most women—a suit is a suit and most of the details are nearly invisible. \u00a0To those who care about menswear, a unique detail or two, properly chosen is what dressing well is all about.<\/p>\n

We can design a suit with any pocket styles you might like and would love to talk more. \u00a0Because we make each piece one-at-a-time here in our studio in Denver, Colorado, we are always able to design a piece with the details that fit your individual tastes.<\/p>\n

Contact me<\/a> with your thoughts and I can get you a sketch.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

When opening a conversation with a bespoke tailor about a custom suit or sportcoat, one of the first questions you will be asked is “Do you have a preference on the pocket style?” A surprising number of men—even men who wear suits often—won’t have considered pocket styling before. This is for one of two reasons: […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[154,171],"tags":[299,367,370,252,218,169,274,366,369,365,368],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/denverbespoke.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2283"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/denverbespoke.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/denverbespoke.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/denverbespoke.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/denverbespoke.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2283"}],"version-history":[{"count":22,"href":"https:\/\/denverbespoke.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2283\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2314,"href":"https:\/\/denverbespoke.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2283\/revisions\/2314"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/denverbespoke.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2283"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/denverbespoke.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2283"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/denverbespoke.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2283"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}