When clients contact us online to order a suit––or make an appointment to meet with us about a suit here in our workshop in Denver, Colorado––one of the first questions we ask is, “Do you want a vest?”

Navy Pinstripe Vest

A Classic Business Look

Around 75% of our clients answer “Yes.”

Part of this is just the fact that most shops don’t carry 3pc suits.  Here in Denver, one can visit the retail stores of some of the hottest international designers an not find a single 3pc suit.

Dressing up With Peak Lapels

And this isn’t because vests aren’t trendy.  3pc suits have been a major trend for the past 6 years.

The reason that one can only find 2pc suits is that not all guys want a vest, and it is just too much of a risk to stock vests in every size if half of the guys won’t want them.

But, as all of our suits are completely custom, we don’t have that problem.  So many of our clients contact us specifically because they know they want a vest and haven’t been able to find a suit that they liked anywhere else.

A Workingman Look

But for the client that isn’t sure which way to go, what kinds of questions should he consider?

The clients who buy 3pc suits fall into 2 categories:

1. Men who love a really formal look (and a vest completes this).

and

2. Men who like a more relaxed “working man” look.

If these reasons for wanting to add a vest seem to contradict each other, this is simply because one can take one’s jacket off in modern social situations.

Even Tweed Sportswear Can Feel Formal in 3pcs

With a jacket and a vest, even the most sporty plaid or houndstooth fabrics take on a very formal look.  A 3pc suit feels more formal and put together on virtually every occasion.

This is particularly the case if one is attending a daytime wedding or an important business meeting.

Contrast Vest

On the other hand, if one takes the jacket off and wears simply the vest and pant, the look becomes altogether sporty and casual.  The look transforms from  ”wedding attire” to “party attire,” from “garden party” to “picnic.”

The result is that a vest is a great choice when one wants to really “dress up” and for when one wants to “dress down.”

Wedding Vest

An Outdoor Fall Wedding

Whether or not a vest is the right choice for your suit really depends on where you will wear the suit and how many occasions one has at either of the extremes.

We sell the fewest 3pc suits to men who wear the suits simply for everyday business.

That said, if one is going to take off one’s jacket at work during part of the day, wearing a vest can certainly be an improvement over simply dressing in shirt sleeves.

For guys who are on the fence, we can always design a vest to go with your jacket and you can decide whether or not you feel that it compliments the look.

Classic Gabardine SuitWe are proud to be one of the few tailors in the US that makes garments from scratch in our workshop.
Most places that offer “tailoring” merely alter existing ready made garments.
Others offer made-to-measure suits by brands such as Tom James that are produced in centralized factories.
But we run a tailoring house on a different model.
If you wanted to understand the single biggest reason that men’s business attire has remained relatively frozen in time since the 1920s and 1930s, you need look no further than the gradual eclipse of the tailoring house by ready-made fashions.
At one point in time, everyone dressed differently.  Individuality and personality were bywords.
Pockets were shaped and placed to store the exact items that a given individual carried every day.
Pants and jackets were styled not by a mystical set of rules, but rather to flatter and to express.
But with mass produced suits, every style suddenly needed to appeal to 100,000 customers. A programmer was supposed to wear the same suit as an executive and the executive was suppose to wear the same suit as the programmer.
We make unique suits for unique people.
Because we can make every style of pocket, every style of waistcoat, can cut pants with an immeasurable number of fits.
Because we don’t have any standard rules or molds.  Because we make suits from any number of novel fabrics, we can offer a virtually infinite amount of choices.

Many of the projects that we take are those that have been turned down by other tailors because  the factories that they contract with are unable to handle anything that deviates more than a hair from the mass model.

Unlike most tailors, we understand the needs of creative professionals.
We will work with you to design a suit from the ground up that expresses what you need to express at the events that you attend.
The navy suit pictured in this posting is a recent suit that we made for a local customer who had been unable to find a pant style that he liked at the shops.  He wanted a suit that was traditional, but not in the way that “traditional” suits tend to be.

He very graciously allowed me to snap a few pictures for our site.
The suit is made from a 10.5 oz gabardine that is extremely durable and perfect for travel.  With hand pick-stitching on the lapels and handmade buttonholes on the jacket and the waistcoat.

The grey flannel suit is another recent business suit project.  This piece was made from a gorgeous pinstripe flannel fabric.
All of our suits are made using a couture muslin technique.  For this process we make the suit first in a rough cotton muslin.
Then we either mail this to you and have you send us pictures of yourself trying it on, or fit it on you in person if you can make it to Denver.  We analyze the way that the muslin hangs and create a new pattern based on what we learn.
This allows us to get a perfect fit in person or long distance.
Contact A.J. (aj@denverbespoke.com) to get started designing a custom suit.

Chocolate Peak Lapel Suit

We make all sorts of suits.
Wedding suits, business suits, sportswear.Windowpane Vest
A windowpane is a simple plaid pattern that is less sporty than many plaids.
Some plaids only work as a sports jacket or stand alone piece.  Make a whole suit from the plaid and it quickly becomes too much.

But many windowpanes look incredible when make in to a two or three piece suit and are just as dressy as a pinstripe or a solid.
The pictures show a few different pieces we have made recently.  A retro brown suit with peak lapels and a wide back collar cut from superfine wool gabardine is complimented by a windowpane vest in a lightweight tweed with olive and peach in the weave.

Silver Windowpane Suit

The three piece suit with hacking pockets on the jacket and vest has a particularly brilliant weave.  Up close the fabric has an almost optic effect with a mini-houndstooth check pattern and light blue windowpane.  From a certain distance, the suit reads as light grey.  
But when you pay attention to the weave of the fabric, the whole suit becomes brilliant and distinctive.
The third piece is a stand alone sports jacket that is perfect for the business casual look.  Here again, the fabric is amazing and fine and pairs up beautifully with many colors of slacks.  The rich corozo nut buttons give the piece an additional touch.
If you are thinking about a suit or other piece, contact me and I can get together some swatches for you.  We can get some of the most amazing fabrics out there, whether you want something minimal and classic, something funky, or something that will stand out in a business environment.

We can get a great fit locally or long distance by using our muslin fitting method.  We first make a cotton mock-up of the pieces and send these to you for feedback and digital pics, then we correct the patterns to fit your body perfectly.
We can make suits with any set of details (pockets, lapel shape, body shape, buttons) imaginable.  Contact me (aj@denverbespoke.com) to get started on a custom project.