Patch Pocket Double-Breasted Reefer Suit

On an overcoat or peacoat, a double-breasted style can serve to keep the wind out. It can make a significant difference as to whether you stay warm and dry.

But on a suit jacket, the traditional role of a double-breasted style is to waste fabric and buttons. The first purpose of the double-breast is to express a certain decadence, to say that one prefers to have more…

A double-breasted jacket stands opposed to puritanism and Protestant simplicity. Throughout history, the double-breasted jacket has served to symbolize the aristocrat, the decadent artist, the well-off gentleman and the “greed is good” Wall Street banker.

Double-Breasted Tailcoat with Covered Buttons

Classic Peak Lapels on a Double-Breasted Houndstooth Suit

A secondary use of the double-breasted style is that of bringing to mind military dress.

Much military clothing over the last several centuries has been double-breasted, partially, no doubt, because of the desire to stay warm in the elements, and partially because a double-breasted style is ideal for showing off extra rows of brass buttons, braid, and medals.

Double-breasted styles go in and out of fashion depending on the spirit of the age. The more austere and modern the prevailing spirit, the more the double-breasted style seems conservative, wasteful, unnecessary. But the more decadent the spirit, the more that the style charms, feeling more luxuriant, rich, and manly.

Chic, Clean, and Single-Breasted.

The double-breasted style, with a few tweaks, can transform from a Mod look to an Edwardian look. And from the dress of a poet, to that of a banker.

The single-breasted style needs no such introduction, of course. It doesn’t require an explanation the way that a double-breasted jacket does.

As the single-breasted style is the most standard jacket style, it is more flexible. The hem can be shaped from crisp and straight to youthful and cut away.

No doubt most customers will always prefer a single breasted jacket simply because it is less remarkable. Particularly so long as the age is one that values function and clean lines.

linen tailcoatWe can make tailcoats for women as well, and as with our men’s tailcoats, we can pretty much do anything that you might be looking for.
For some of our custom tails, we have appliqued strange images, from vinyl insects to Victorian floral cottons.
For others, we have shortened the tails or added corset style detailing to the back.
We can make the coats with bell sleeves, with 3/4 sleeves, or with dramatic cuffs.
Just let us know what you are looking for and where you might like to wear your coat and we can work together to design a piece just for you.
Contact A.J. - – to get started designing your custom tailcoat now.
Custom Wool Gabardine Dress Coat

Custom Wool Gabardine Dress Coat

This is yet another version of our custom tailcoats, cut from wool gabardine with brass buttons.
Rather than our standard straight hemmed double-breasted style, this piece cuts away at the front to match the angle of a notch-hemmed vest.
A piece in this style can be worn as part of a modern wedding ensemble or a as a costume piece, depending on the details.
We made another version of this coat, from velvet and flocked taffeta with a fleur-de-lis design for a wedding over the summer.
As you can see, the two tailcoats are almost completely different, despite the similar design. One other thing that is of note is the different lapels and collar shape.
The black gabardine version has a stand-up collar and slightly wider lapels, while the velvet/taffeta version has more standard notch-lapels.Dress Coat in Wool Gabardine
When we begin designing a tailcoat many factors go into making many choices. What type of event will you be wearing it to?
To a steampunk ball, to a white-tie wedding? Every detail can be changed to match the shape of a vest or the color of a gown.
Contact us now to begin designing the perfect piece.