Smoking Jacket Tuxedo

It is time to look for something fresh.

Something, dare I say, fun.

The old formalwear is dead and gone.

After decades of being stuck in an endless repeat, formalwear is back to what is was in the earlier 20th century and before:

A chance to show distinction and individuality. Charm.  Even a sense of humor.

A man either knows who he is or he doesn’t.  And the man who knows who he is is less concerned with rules than with expression.

Whether you are attending black tie events on a regular basis or looking for something unique to wear to your wedding, choosing black and white tie attire is a chance to examine your tastes, your personality, and the things that you appreciate.Shawl Collar Brocade Tuxedo

Paisley Brocade Smoking JacketLooking fashionable is always about looking to tradition and finding the elements that are most relevant to the present.

In the images attached to this post, we looked variously to the Victorian smoking jacket, the jacket cuffs of the 1920s, mid-20th century resort dinner jackets, the fitted pants of the cavalry man, and military double-breasted waistcoats.

The result is a little bit of the gentleman.  A little bit of the rogue.Black Dragon Brocade Vest

Ready for a wedding.  And for the party after the wedding.

The first jacket is cut from a napped chenille brocade with silk velvet lapels, cuffs, and pocket welts.

The jacket is paired with a wool gabardine rocker pant with a velvet tuxedo stripe and a silk velvet topper trimmed with cock feathers.

A pointed back collar and pointed cuffs, give the piece a bit of extra character.

The jacket is utterly fitted with a frock waist seam that gives it a slight hourglass look.

The next tuxedo pictured is cut from 11oz wool gabardine in navy with heavy silk grosgrain lapels and 1920s style cuffs.

The jacket is shown with a silk brocade vest in a double breasted style with a high neck and a trouser with a tuxedo braid on the outseam.

But these pieces are just examples of what we can do.

All of our tuxedos are completely custom made for each client, starting with unique sketches that we do based on your thoughts and sourcing the finest fabrics from around the world.

Most of our tuxedos are “muslin fit.”

This means that we cut and sew cotton prototypes of the garments and mail them to you.  Then you send us digital pictures and your comments and we fine tune the patterns and look to suit you perfectly.

We make suits for clients who are looking for something distinctive all over the world.

Contact us to discuss your custom thoughts and ideas.

Wool and Silk Morning SwallowtailEvery year, many of our clients choose to get married in tails.

Sometimes in classic white tie, sometimes in a swallowtail look or in one of our military or steampunk styles.

Tailcoats and morning coats have deep roots in tradition, but in the modern era can be some of the most unique and expressive pieces in menswear.

In recent decades, women would show up in wedding gowns and flamboyant ball gowns and men would show up in rented black suits.

Such is a poor way to honor the special events in one’s life.

But recently, we have seen more and more tailcoats at red carpet events as men have become more interested in dressing well.

Traditionally, the black tailcoat with a black double striped trouser and a matching white pique vest, shirt bib, and bowtie was the ultimate evening formalwear.

Morning Coat for WeddingFor the daytime, a black or charcoal morning coat—a frock coat that sometimes has a pronounced swallowtail or cutaway shape—with a charcoal striped pant, and a contrast vest, with either with a contrast formal cravat or bowtie was the way to go.

But dressing well is not so much about following the rules as it is about using tradition to express your individuality.

The pics show one of our most recent morning suits.

The cut of the coat is a hybrid of a swallowtail coat with the sharper, more angled shape of classic tailcoats.

The front shape is continuous along the placket, but then cuts away sharply back into a square tail.  It is my feeling that this shape feels more modern than a classic swallowtail.square tails tailcoat

All of the pieces tie in various shades of purple.
Victorian Peak Lapel Tailcoat

The tailcoat is cut from a black wool, but with silk lapel facings that wrap around to the wool edge which features rows of decorative buttonholes.  The silk is iridescent—charcoal grey woven with subtle purple.Purple Morning Coat with Awesome Cuff

The vest––cut from pale purple silk––features classic peak lapels and a low neck.

And the pant is made from a traditional morning stripe charcoal wool––but here the stripes are purple as well this time, a bold purple that is only visible when close.  Classic Morning Coat

The cut of the pants is a classic wide-leg pleated style with wide cuffs.Classic Morning Coat for Weddings

Finally, the 6″ top hat is cut from a subtle purple heather flannel that reads as charcoal grey at first glance with trim to match the morning coat.

We made everything in the pics except the shoes and the ivory handled walking stick (which belonged to my great great grandfather!).Colorado Bespoke Suits

So if you are considering a tailcoat, a morning coat, a top hat, or a vest definitely Contact Us so that we can talk more.

All of our pieces are custom made to your measurements, and with the full suits, we actually cut and sew mock-ups of the pieces to mail to you to try on, ensuring a perfect fit in the final garments.

Last year, we made suits for events all across the world.

So where ever you are located, we can make a suit for you.

Each piece is handmade one-at-a-time here in our studio in Denver, Colorado.

Pale Grey Wedding Tailcoat
We make custom tailcoats.
Classic 1930s, Edwardian, Steampunk, a bit retro, a bit modern.

Tophat and tailcoat

Just let us know what you are looking for and we will start sketching and putting fabrics together.
Our complete suits are muslin fit.  Pale Grey Wedding Tailcoat

This means that we mail you a mock-up of the pieces sewn in cotton so that you can try them on before we make the final garments.

You send us a pic of yourself wearing the muslins and we alter the patterns to get just the right fit and look.Tailcoat Wedding Picture

The pics show some of our most recent outfits.

Wedding in Gray TailsThe pictures of the elephant grey tailcoat show a complete outfit that we made.  White Tie Attire

The tailcoat is a classic open front style with silk shantung lapels that add a beautiful sheen to the look.

Classic Retro Wedding TailsThe vest is double-breasted and made from a silk brocade to coordinate with the wedding dress and the hat is a completely handsewn wool and silk buckram and wire frame piece that we made.

Classic White Tie TailcoatEach piece is uniquely designed and individually made-to-measure.
This means that we can design something exactly in your style with all of the right details to match the look you are going for.
Pique Vest TailcoatThe pants are made without a front crease for a slim Victorian look.

Edwardian Tailcoat

The black tailcoats show two different versions of our classic open front tailcoats.
Vintage WeddingOne was made for a 1930s style wedding.
This tailcoat has a pointed hem and wide lapels made from gorgeous silk grosgrain.
It is shown with a handmade backless white cotton pique vest, a bibbed detachable collar white pique shirt, and bowtie.
Chocolate Brown TailcoatThe other black tailcoat has smaller peak lapels, also made from silk grosgrain, and a straight cut hem for a look that is both Edwardian and very modern.
The chocolate brown tailcoat is cut from a wool gabardine with wide grosgrain lapels, also in chocolate, brass buttons, and a silk duppioni lining.Fishtail Pants
The pants are in a Victorian style with a fishtail and back belt.
The grey pinstripe military tailcoat was made for a steampunk wedding.
1790s Military TailcoatIt is cut from a gorgeous wool flannel and shown with a matching Wellington style top hat.
We also made the boy’s vests and pants that are shown in the wedding pictures.Military tails
The navy blue tailcoat (shown with a seersucker vest) shows another version of our popular military tails.
We can do many types of military tailcoats.
So just contact us if you would like to see more ideas in this vein.
The final pics show a black lambskin tailcoat with embossed cuffs and side laces.
Leather TailcoatIf you are thinking about ordering a tailcoat or complete ensemble, just contact us (aj@denverbespoke.com) so that we can talk about your project and start getting together fabrics to mail to you.
If you aren’t sure quite which details you like, just tell us a bit about yourself and the events that you will attend and we will start sketching.

Steampunk Tailcoats

Be sure to check out the websites of the amazing photographers who took the photos above!  For more pics of the elephant gray suit, check out Old South Photography here.  For pics of the amazing white tie wedding, check out David Tero Photography here.  For pics of the tailcoat in brown with aqua silk details, check out Joyeuse Photograpy here.