Smoking Jacket Tuxedo

It is time to look for something fresh.

Something, dare I say, fun.

The old formalwear is dead and gone.

After decades of being stuck in an endless repeat, formalwear is back to what is was in the earlier 20th century and before:

A chance to show distinction and individuality. Charm.  Even a sense of humor.

A man either knows who he is or he doesn’t.  And the man who knows who he is is less concerned with rules than with expression.

Whether you are attending black tie events on a regular basis or looking for something unique to wear to your wedding, choosing black and white tie attire is a chance to examine your tastes, your personality, and the things that you appreciate.Shawl Collar Brocade Tuxedo

Paisley Brocade Smoking JacketLooking fashionable is always about looking to tradition and finding the elements that are most relevant to the present.

In the images attached to this post, we looked variously to the Victorian smoking jacket, the jacket cuffs of the 1920s, mid-20th century resort dinner jackets, the fitted pants of the cavalry man, and military double-breasted waistcoats.

The result is a little bit of the gentleman.  A little bit of the rogue.Black Dragon Brocade Vest

Ready for a wedding.  And for the party after the wedding.

The first jacket is cut from a napped chenille brocade with silk velvet lapels, cuffs, and pocket welts.

The jacket is paired with a wool gabardine rocker pant with a velvet tuxedo stripe and a silk velvet topper trimmed with cock feathers.

A pointed back collar and pointed cuffs, give the piece a bit of extra character.

The jacket is utterly fitted with a frock waist seam that gives it a slight hourglass look.

The next tuxedo pictured is cut from 11oz wool gabardine in navy with heavy silk grosgrain lapels and 1920s style cuffs.

The jacket is shown with a silk brocade vest in a double breasted style with a high neck and a trouser with a tuxedo braid on the outseam.

But these pieces are just examples of what we can do.

All of our tuxedos are completely custom made for each client, starting with unique sketches that we do based on your thoughts and sourcing the finest fabrics from around the world.

Most of our tuxedos are “muslin fit.”

This means that we cut and sew cotton prototypes of the garments and mail them to you.  Then you send us digital pictures and your comments and we fine tune the patterns and look to suit you perfectly.

We make suits for clients who are looking for something distinctive all over the world.

Contact us to discuss your custom thoughts and ideas.

Pale Grey Wedding Tailcoat
We make custom tailcoats.
Classic 1930s, Edwardian, Steampunk, a bit retro, a bit modern.

Tophat and tailcoat

Just let us know what you are looking for and we will start sketching and putting fabrics together.
Our complete suits are muslin fit.  Pale Grey Wedding Tailcoat

This means that we mail you a mock-up of the pieces sewn in cotton so that you can try them on before we make the final garments.

You send us a pic of yourself wearing the muslins and we alter the patterns to get just the right fit and look.Tailcoat Wedding Picture

The pics show some of our most recent outfits.

Wedding in Gray TailsThe pictures of the elephant grey tailcoat show a complete outfit that we made.  White Tie Attire

The tailcoat is a classic open front style with silk shantung lapels that add a beautiful sheen to the look.

Classic Retro Wedding TailsThe vest is double-breasted and made from a silk brocade to coordinate with the wedding dress and the hat is a completely handsewn wool and silk buckram and wire frame piece that we made.

Classic White Tie TailcoatEach piece is uniquely designed and individually made-to-measure.
This means that we can design something exactly in your style with all of the right details to match the look you are going for.
Pique Vest TailcoatThe pants are made without a front crease for a slim Victorian look.

Edwardian Tailcoat

The black tailcoats show two different versions of our classic open front tailcoats.
Vintage WeddingOne was made for a 1930s style wedding.
This tailcoat has a pointed hem and wide lapels made from gorgeous silk grosgrain.
It is shown with a handmade backless white cotton pique vest, a bibbed detachable collar white pique shirt, and bowtie.
Chocolate Brown TailcoatThe other black tailcoat has smaller peak lapels, also made from silk grosgrain, and a straight cut hem for a look that is both Edwardian and very modern.
The chocolate brown tailcoat is cut from a wool gabardine with wide grosgrain lapels, also in chocolate, brass buttons, and a silk duppioni lining.Fishtail Pants
The pants are in a Victorian style with a fishtail and back belt.
The grey pinstripe military tailcoat was made for a steampunk wedding.
1790s Military TailcoatIt is cut from a gorgeous wool flannel and shown with a matching Wellington style top hat.
We also made the boy’s vests and pants that are shown in the wedding pictures.Military tails
The navy blue tailcoat (shown with a seersucker vest) shows another version of our popular military tails.
We can do many types of military tailcoats.
So just contact us if you would like to see more ideas in this vein.
The final pics show a black lambskin tailcoat with embossed cuffs and side laces.
Leather TailcoatIf you are thinking about ordering a tailcoat or complete ensemble, just contact us ( so that we can talk about your project and start getting together fabrics to mail to you.
If you aren’t sure quite which details you like, just tell us a bit about yourself and the events that you will attend and we will start sketching.

Steampunk Tailcoats

Be sure to check out the websites of the amazing photographers who took the photos above!  For more pics of the elephant gray suit, check out Old South Photography here.  For pics of the amazing white tie wedding, check out David Tero Photography here.  For pics of the tailcoat in brown with aqua silk details, check out Joyeuse Photograpy here.

Chocolate Brown Frock Coat

A tropical wool old West style frock coat that we made. Photo by

For weddings, steampunk formal wear, fascinating sportswear and outerwear.

Brown Tropical Wool Morning Coat

A frock coat is traditionally defined as a long jacket with a seam at the waist. The waist seam allows for shaping, giving the piece a highly fitted look versus other types of coats (like a trenchcoat or raglan) and other styles of jacket (like the standard sack suit jacket).
18th century frock coats do not always have a seam at the front waist, and the above definition is more appropriate to later 19th and 20th century clothing.
Custom made linen morning coat

A "One Button" Linen Frock Coat

The two most common types of frock coat are the “morning coat” and the “Prince Albert” frock. The “Prince Albert” is double-breasted, while the morning frock is (with a couple exceptions like the University coat) single-breasted.

Traditionally, the morning coat would have been worn for day time formal events (like weddings and state visits) in place of a tailcoat. For much of the 20th century the morning coat fell out of style and was only worn by conservative dressers (such as Prince Charles and Ronald Reagan), but today with a renewed interest in formal dress (and Victorian and Edwardian fashions), the frock coat has become one of the garments of choice for weddings.

Custom brocade frock coat

A Double-Breasted Frock Overcoat

raincoat frock coat

A Double-Breasted Rainwear Frock

Morning coats can cut away in front to a greater or lesser degree. The grey linen coat picture is what is called a “One Button Frock”. Although the coat has several buttons, only one button (the top button) is meant to be closed. This look is great for revealing a special vest.

The other styles of frock coat that we make are variations on the double-breasted frock overcoat. Overcoat frocks are made without shoulder pads and generally with less structure so that they can be worn over a suit jacket. The rainwear frock shown is a unique take on the frock overcoat and can be worn for everyday casual or business dress.

Modern look 18th Cen. style frocks that we made. Featured in Denver Magazine. Photo by amazing Denver Photographer Annabelle Reboli (

Every piece we make is custom and there are hundreds of different variations that we can make. So just contact us ( so that we can discuss the options.

For customers who want a completely custom tailored fit, we offer our muslin fitting service via long distance. For this process we make a mock-up of the coat to send to you before cutting the actual fabrics. You can then take pictures of yourself wearing the mock-up and we will adjust the pattern to get exactly the right fit and style.