Montgomery Wards Tweed BlazerWe did not make the blue herringbone jacket. But we wish we had!
Sometimes Lianna and I go vintage hunting to look for interesting old details to use on garments.
We also like to collect vintage buttons from worn out garments, and frequently use vintage buttons on our coats.Crop Tweed Blazer
This tweed herringbone jacket is exactly what I was looking for. I wanted a sport coat that was large enough to wear over a sweater (not usually recommend) so I could wear it when taking winter walks.
But what really caught my attention was the pockets. The jacket has three flap pockets, each with the same uniquely curved shape.
This style of pocket appears on some jackets from the early 20th century and then on some sportcoats from the 1970s.

Retro 1970s Style Suit

The grey pinstripe suit and vest is a suit that we eventually made using this style of pocket.  Overall the suit has a retro/vintage look, but it doesn’t really recall any one period as it borrows many little known details to create something new.
Tweed is amazing stuff. Even a simple tweed often has four or five colors, and this one is no exception. Threads of black, burnt orange, olive green and blue all make up the weave of this fabric.
The jacket also has a line of top-stitching that runs along the lapels and ends a couple inches into the hem. This detail really makes the lapel pop.
The last pics are of a piece that we are calling the Irish Gardener Vest. It is another tweed, this time a wool silk donegal tweed in forest green with flecks of red, yellow, and black.

Irish Gardener Vest

We did make this piece, but we based it almost exactly on a vest from the 1930s. This piece is also well pocketed, with four functional welt pockets. Note the line of top-stitching on the fronts here also. Really a great detail for a tweed fabric.
We can get tweeds in every color, in every type. Just let us know what you are looking for and we will send swatches.
Wool Zipper Front Jacket

A jacket made from Italian wool in a 1930s style.

This jacket is a piece that I made for myself from some leftover Italian wool suiting that we had. It is inspired by 1920s and 30s motoring and sports jackets but has somewhat more modern style lines.
The beauty part of our bespoke jackets lies in the fact that each and every detail can be hand-picked.
In this case, I made flap-pockets and added bias-cut inset panels in the front. I also did away with the lower pockets that I was considering, reasoning that having welt pockets at the waist would only encourage me to slouch, and that, in general, men are more becoming when they stick their hands in jean or trouser pockets.
No doubt each of us would choose different options. Below is an alternate version of the jacket that I designed, with a wider collar, no front style lines, and pleated front patch pockets. This piece also has a top-stitched back pleat rather that style lines at the side back.
A Sketch of an Alternate Design I Considered
The jacket I made for myself is also unlined, which saves in terms of price and makes the piece better for wear in the spring and during hot summer nights. But for a customer who hoped to wear the jacket deeper into the winter, I would undoubtedly recommend a lining.
If a customer writes us about a style, often we can forward on many ideas or perfecting the piece in the form of sketches, vintage photos, and fabric ideas.
Wool and Leather Jackets

1936 Sears Catalog

Here is a page from the 1936 Sears catalog (borrowed from this book) that shows numerous possibilities for jacket details including back belts, pleats for fitting and numerous welt pockets
Any of these ideas can be incorporated into a piece that is hand-tailored for your body and climate. As with the jacket, that I made from the striped fabrics, we can also “update” and seamlessly blend numerous modern touches with any or the vintage details for a piece that is completely modern and classic.
To get started designing your own custom piece, contact us now.