Pale Grey Wedding Tailcoat
We make custom tailcoats.
Classic 1930s, Edwardian, Steampunk, a bit retro, a bit modern.

Tophat and tailcoat

Just let us know what you are looking for and we will start sketching and putting fabrics together.
Our complete suits are muslin fit.  Pale Grey Wedding Tailcoat

This means that we mail you a mock-up of the pieces sewn in cotton so that you can try them on before we make the final garments.

You send us a pic of yourself wearing the muslins and we alter the patterns to get just the right fit and look.Tailcoat Wedding Picture

The pics show some of our most recent outfits.

Wedding in Gray TailsThe pictures of the elephant grey tailcoat show a complete outfit that we made.  White Tie Attire

The tailcoat is a classic open front style with silk shantung lapels that add a beautiful sheen to the look.

Classic Retro Wedding TailsThe vest is double-breasted and made from a silk brocade to coordinate with the wedding dress and the hat is a completely handsewn wool and silk buckram and wire frame piece that we made.

Classic White Tie TailcoatEach piece is uniquely designed and individually made-to-measure.
This means that we can design something exactly in your style with all of the right details to match the look you are going for.
Pique Vest TailcoatThe pants are made without a front crease for a slim Victorian look.

Edwardian Tailcoat

The black tailcoats show two different versions of our classic open front tailcoats.
Vintage WeddingOne was made for a 1930s style wedding.
This tailcoat has a pointed hem and wide lapels made from gorgeous silk grosgrain.
It is shown with a handmade backless white cotton pique vest, a bibbed detachable collar white pique shirt, and bowtie.
Chocolate Brown TailcoatThe other black tailcoat has smaller peak lapels, also made from silk grosgrain, and a straight cut hem for a look that is both Edwardian and very modern.
The chocolate brown tailcoat is cut from a wool gabardine with wide grosgrain lapels, also in chocolate, brass buttons, and a silk duppioni lining.Fishtail Pants
The pants are in a Victorian style with a fishtail and back belt.
The grey pinstripe military tailcoat was made for a steampunk wedding.
1790s Military TailcoatIt is cut from a gorgeous wool flannel and shown with a matching Wellington style top hat.
We also made the boy’s vests and pants that are shown in the wedding pictures.Military tails
The navy blue tailcoat (shown with a seersucker vest) shows another version of our popular military tails.
We can do many types of military tailcoats.
So just contact us if you would like to see more ideas in this vein.
The final pics show a black lambskin tailcoat with embossed cuffs and side laces.
Leather TailcoatIf you are thinking about ordering a tailcoat or complete ensemble, just contact us ( so that we can talk about your project and start getting together fabrics to mail to you.
If you aren’t sure quite which details you like, just tell us a bit about yourself and the events that you will attend and we will start sketching.

Steampunk Tailcoats

Be sure to check out the websites of the amazing photographers who took the photos above!  For more pics of the elephant gray suit, check out Old South Photography here.  For pics of the amazing white tie wedding, check out David Tero Photography here.  For pics of the tailcoat in brown with aqua silk details, check out Joyeuse Photograpy here.

Lapel Styles

Some of Our Common Lapel Styles

Lapels on a suit coat are supremely non-functional.  One could, indeed, do without them entirely without changing the function of the suit in any way.

But fashion begins to grow rich and strange at the very moment that function stops.  Indeed one might best think of a lapel as a type of “fetish.”  Its only purpose is to symbolize, to mean.

More than any other element of a suit jacket, the lapel is expressive.

Narrow Lapels

Narrow lapels express youth and agility.  Wide lapels express confidence and authority.

Wide 3-Button Lapels

The first decision when thinking about lapel style in a single-breasted jacket is to choose between a two and a three button style (or, less commonly, between a one, four, or five button style).  This is the strongest determinant of lapel length as it effects the “break point,” the point where the suit front folds over to become a lapel.

Some customers believe that the number of buttons on a jacket should be at least partially determined by one’s body type.

Using only two buttons will make the break point for the suit lower, creating a more horizontal effect.  With three buttons, the lapels are shorter:  they “top off” the suit

An Unstructured Style with 4 Buttons and Wide Notch Lapels

But tying this to body type often makes for confusion.  Should the tall skinny customer want a suit that is more vertical (accentuating his height) or more horizontal (balancing out his height)?  What about a portly customer?  Will a two button suit make him seem shorter and wider?

Pronounced Peak Lapels

In general, I don’t believe that body type alone should determine the number of buttons and the lapel shape of a jacket.  Much of the subtle work of tailoring is figuring out how to make each and every style look great no matter who is wearing it.

It must be confessed that a long three button jacket is particularly dramatic on a tall slim figure and that wide two-button lapels on a stocky gentleman give an air of natural authority.

Wide Lapels with Gentle Peaks

A larger chest and waist size call for bolder details, while the same lapels on someone slender could only make the neck, chest, and head seem weak and shrunken.

So certainly some attention must be paid to body type when working out a style, but this is more a matter of subtle work than of hard and fast rules.

The choice between peak and notch lapels is another significant choice.  With a peak lapel, the lower portion of the collar angles upward and reaches toward the upper collar.

Certainly, the peak lapel makes for a more dramatic effect.  Used correctly, the peak lapel can add distinction and formality to a suit.  It can also, on a youthful suit, have give an almost punk or rocker touch, especially when the look is exaggerated.

If you aren’t sure quite what type of lapel to go for, as us to sketch you some different options.

There are hundreds of slightly different variations that we can use to craft the perfect lapel, so tell us more about who you are and we will design the lapel to suit you.

Overlapping Peak Lapel JacketWe made this tailcoat for a customer in Australia who wanted a tailcoat without any straight lines for a wedding. He provided us with a sketch of his ideas. Regency Tailcoat in Black Brocade
We had just seen the movie, The Duelists, Ridley Scott’s first feature, a film in which Harvey Keitel and Keith Carradine play dueling hussars, and had become obsessed with the idea of doing over-lapping lapels on a jacket, a common detail in the Napoleonic era.
Regency Brocade Tailcoat CuffThe customer was game, and this detail was incorporated into the design in the boldest possible way.
The jacket has two-piece shaped sleeves with large pointed cuffs. The tails lack the pleat that we often use and come to a more exaggerated point than our standard tail shape, although, like the tails on our other coats, the tails still extend around the hip for a fuller shape.
This coat is an example of the more complicated custom tailcoats that we can make. Part of our goal in making tailcoats is to be able to provide excellent dress coats for comic conventions and steampunk parties as well as for weddings and other formal events.
To this end, we can make a great tailcoat that is far better than any costume tailcoat, and in better fabrics.
For customers who want a piece that is in every way comparable to our suit jackets (or to an authentic Regency or Victorian-era jacket), we can offer a completely custom set of tails in the best fabrics available (wools, silks and brocades).
We can also fit the piece with a cotton muslin mock-up of the coat which we make and send to you for feedback, insuring a completely custom fit.
Just let us know what you are thinking about, and we can work together to design and make a completely unique piece like this one…