Every year we make some of the most amazing custom coats that can be found anywhere.
The coats are cut from gorgeous wools, cashmeres, camel hairs and alpaca fibers.
An overcoat or greatcoat is a wonderfully formal piece for an informal society.
It is utilitarian, of course, and many of our coats are based on styles that were originally designed for military wear, but also fitted and highly-tailored and constructed in such a way that stylizes the body.
Unlike most other pieces of clothing, an overcoat is a piece that one might wear over 100 times a year.
For clients who take care in their every day dress, no single piece of clothing is as important for making an impression—particularly for those of us who live in climates with colder winters.
All of our coats are made to order and every coat is unique.
You send us your measurements and a little bit about your general sense of style and the colors that you like and we start sketching ideas until we find the perfect look.
We mail you fabric swatches from all over the world until we find the perfect fabric.
Finally, we draft a completely unique pattern for you and cut and sew the coat based on this pattern.
The result is something that is completely yours and makes just the impression that you are hoping to make when you step out on the street.
The light brown herringbone coat is cut from a wool/cashmere herringbone fabric with thick horn buttons. This style features a 1920s style breast pocket, a skirt with a triple back pleat, small peak lapels, a quilted undercollar, and hip welt pockets.
With a slim cut, this is a chic and modern interpretation of a trenchcoat or greatcoat.
The heather grey twill coat features classic trenchcoat style lapels and epaulettes, along with handwarmer pockets on the chest, patch pockets with flaps, and a double-breasted style with straight rows of buttons.
The fabric is a thick twill flannel.
This coat has a completely classic early 20th century trenchcoat styling.
The next coat is made from a very heavy and plush Irish donegal tweed with flecks of white, silver, and black.
This coat features a zipper breast pocket and a patch pocket on the sleeve. Note that this coat also is cut without cuffs, but with belts on the sleeves that allow the sleeves to be sucked in on the wrists.
These details give the coat a more modern but also quite military look. The coat is also cut with a full skirt and triple back pleat—details that add to the dramatic flair of the coat.
The navy blue coat with the purple lining is another example of a trenchcoat—-this one again in a gorgeous herringbone flannel. A subtle navy color like this one, keeps the coat from blending in too much and lends a more fashionable look to the piece.
Recently, there has also been a lot more interest in caped coats as coats with capes have shown up more and more on the runway.
The black coat with the double cape is an historically inspired coat that takes many of the best details from the 18th century great coat and sharpens them up a bit to create an amazing and durable piece that is ready for the coldest weather.
The style is cut with hip welt pockets and uniquely shaped button tabs.
The fabric on this piece is a 20 ounce melton wool and the cape and body are lined in a heavy red satin.
The final set of photos show a camel hair Victorian-style fur shell coat (here shown with a faux fur). The camel hair fabric is a felted plush fabric that is incredibly thick and warm.
Adding the faux fur on the entire facing of a double-breasted coat creates a piece that is incredibly warm and luxurious. The entire facing and back collar has been pick-stitched by hand for added flatness and beauty.
We would love to design and make a coat for you. We can’t take very many coat orders each year, so definitely order in advance of when you need it and discuss the timeframe with us so that we make sure that we have enough time to work your coat in.
To get started on a custom coat send an email to: firstname.lastname@example.org
We make some of the best coats in the world. What is more every coat is custom made.
We can make a coat with the exact style of pockets, style of lapels, length, and fit that you desire.
The pictures show some of our favorite recent coats.
The featured coat is a black cashmere greatcoat that is double-breasted with wide lapels, a broad collar that flips up, a pleat in the upper back and three pleats on the skirt.
The coat weighs a full 5lbs and has a plush luxurious hand and slight sheen.
One of the back pictures catches the coat blowing out in the wind (which is a magnificent look).
We can make hundreds of variations on this coat, changing the pockets, the back details, the fabric, length, stitching, or can design something totally from scratch.
The second coat featured is an inverness coat cut from a medium grey donegal tweed.
This caped coat is a modern take on the traditional inverness with relatively slim panels, wide sleeves, and a drop shoulder.
The cape is also detachable for those times when you don’t want to carry the extra weight.
The third coat pictured is a plaid hunting jacket.
This jacket was made for a customer who loved vintage 1930s style shirt jackets, but wanted something with a slimmer fit, a concealed zipper and storm flap, and a full satin lining.
Every part of this jacket has a double layer of wool coating. The upper body has the cape. The lower front is made a double layer with wool pocket bags, and the back again has a full wool underlayer that forms a long pocket.
The left breast pocket is separated into compartments for shotgun shells (or pens, tire gauges, nail sets, etc).
The result is a vintage look jacket that is completely and utterly warm and insulated and has a luxurious feel to it.
Different types of fabrics are perfect for different coats and three of the most common types of coating fabrics are tweed, melton, and flannel.
Tweed is made from relatively unfinished wool yarn and has a slightly fuzzy appearance–the grey coat above is a birdseye tweed.
Flannel has a soft brushed appearance and is what the plaid hunting jacket is made from. Melton is a deeply felted coating fabric, that is heavier, denser, and more water resistant than tweeds and flannels. This is what the black coat is made from.
So when you write us to have us start working on the perfect coat, tell us everything that you can think of about your climate, the types of pockets you like, how often you will wear the coat, and your sense of style and we will get together the best fabrics and design something just for you.
Contact AJ to get started now (email@example.com).