Wool and Silk Morning SwallowtailEvery year, many of our clients choose to get married in tails.

Sometimes in classic white tie, sometimes in a swallowtail look or in one of our military or steampunk styles.

Tailcoats and morning coats have deep roots in tradition, but in the modern era can be some of the most unique and expressive pieces in menswear.

In recent decades, women would show up in wedding gowns and flamboyant ball gowns and men would show up in rented black suits.

Such is a poor way to honor the special events in one’s life.

But recently, we have seen more and more tailcoats at red carpet events as men have become more interested in dressing well.

Traditionally, the black tailcoat with a black double striped trouser and a matching white pique vest, shirt bib, and bowtie was the ultimate evening formalwear.

Morning Coat for WeddingFor the daytime, a black or charcoal morning coat—a frock coat that sometimes has a pronounced swallowtail or cutaway shape—with a charcoal striped pant, and a contrast vest, with either with a contrast formal cravat or bowtie was the way to go.

But dressing well is not so much about following the rules as it is about using tradition to express your individuality.

The pics show one of our most recent morning suits.

The cut of the coat is a hybrid of a swallowtail coat with the sharper, more angled shape of classic tailcoats.

The front shape is continuous along the placket, but then cuts away sharply back into a square tail.  It is my feeling that this shape feels more modern than a classic swallowtail.square tails tailcoat

All of the pieces tie in various shades of purple.
Victorian Peak Lapel Tailcoat

The tailcoat is cut from a black wool, but with silk lapel facings that wrap around to the wool edge which features rows of decorative buttonholes.  The silk is iridescent—charcoal grey woven with subtle purple.Purple Morning Coat with Awesome Cuff

The vest––cut from pale purple silk––features classic peak lapels and a low neck.

And the pant is made from a traditional morning stripe charcoal wool––but here the stripes are purple as well this time, a bold purple that is only visible when close.  Classic Morning Coat

The cut of the pants is a classic wide-leg pleated style with wide cuffs.Classic Morning Coat for Weddings

Finally, the 6″ top hat is cut from a subtle purple heather flannel that reads as charcoal grey at first glance with trim to match the morning coat.

We made everything in the pics except the shoes and the ivory handled walking stick (which belonged to my great great grandfather!).Colorado Bespoke Suits

So if you are considering a tailcoat, a morning coat, a top hat, or a vest definitely Contact Us so that we can talk more.

All of our pieces are custom made to your measurements, and with the full suits, we actually cut and sew mock-ups of the pieces to mail to you to try on, ensuring a perfect fit in the final garments.

Last year, we made suits for events all across the world.

So where ever you are located, we can make a suit for you.

Each piece is handmade one-at-a-time here in our studio in Denver, Colorado.

Vegan Men's Business Suit

For the growing number of vegans buying fine wedding attire and business suits can be difficult.

It can be nearly impossible to find a suit that is made without the use of animal products.
Nearly every part of a traditional suit is made from an animal product.

The buttons are made from horn or shell, the body from wool with a wool melton undercollar and goat hair canvas for inner structure.
Linings and bindings are often made from silk.
Although we do make traditional suits from wools and silks, we have developed a process specifically for vegan customers that eliminates the use of animal products but makes for a suit that has all of the fine qualities of a traditional suit.
We have now made dozens of suits using this method and have had wonderful results.
The pictures that accompany this posting show four recent projects that we made for weddings around the world:
A gray retro look suit made from a rayon blend pinstripe fabric, a cotton vest and pant suit with synthetic moleskin trimmings to replace leather,  and a polyester morning coat for formal wear.
Any of our suits in any style can be made in vegan-friendly versions and we can even make quality custom leather jackets using the best faux leathers.  
We muslin-fit almost all of our suits, which means that we mail you a prototype to try on before we cut the final suit.
This allows us to guarantee a perfect fit even via long distance given that a custom paper pattern has been adjusted exactly for your style and body type.
To get started we sketch ideas for you until we hit upon the perfect suit and mail you swatches of fabrics that you might like.
Contact A.J. to find out more:  aj@denverbespoke.com

All of these suits were featured on the wedding blog RockNRoll Bride.  So definitely check out that site for more pictures of our work.  The photos of the first suit are by John Benevente.  Those of the vest and pant suit by Our Labor of Love.  And those of the morning coat wedding by PhotoPink NYC.

Chocolate Brown Frock Coat

A tropical wool old West style frock coat that we made. Photo by www.Mod4.com.

For weddings, steampunk formal wear, fascinating sportswear and outerwear.

Brown Tropical Wool Morning Coat

A frock coat is traditionally defined as a long jacket with a seam at the waist. The waist seam allows for shaping, giving the piece a highly fitted look versus other types of coats (like a trenchcoat or raglan) and other styles of jacket (like the standard sack suit jacket).
18th century frock coats do not always have a seam at the front waist, and the above definition is more appropriate to later 19th and 20th century clothing.
Custom made linen morning coat

A "One Button" Linen Frock Coat

The two most common types of frock coat are the “morning coat” and the “Prince Albert” frock. The “Prince Albert” is double-breasted, while the morning frock is (with a couple exceptions like the University coat) single-breasted.

Traditionally, the morning coat would have been worn for day time formal events (like weddings and state visits) in place of a tailcoat. For much of the 20th century the morning coat fell out of style and was only worn by conservative dressers (such as Prince Charles and Ronald Reagan), but today with a renewed interest in formal dress (and Victorian and Edwardian fashions), the frock coat has become one of the garments of choice for weddings.

Custom brocade frock coat

A Double-Breasted Frock Overcoat

raincoat frock coat

A Double-Breasted Rainwear Frock

Morning coats can cut away in front to a greater or lesser degree. The grey linen coat picture is what is called a “One Button Frock”. Although the coat has several buttons, only one button (the top button) is meant to be closed. This look is great for revealing a special vest.

The other styles of frock coat that we make are variations on the double-breasted frock overcoat. Overcoat frocks are made without shoulder pads and generally with less structure so that they can be worn over a suit jacket. The rainwear frock shown is a unique take on the frock overcoat and can be worn for everyday casual or business dress.

Modern look 18th Cen. style frocks that we made. Featured in Denver Magazine. Photo by amazing Denver Photographer Annabelle Reboli (www.annabellereboli.com).

Every piece we make is custom and there are hundreds of different variations that we can make. So just contact us (aj@denverbespoke.com) so that we can discuss the options.

For customers who want a completely custom tailored fit, we offer our muslin fitting service via long distance. For this process we make a mock-up of the coat to send to you before cutting the actual fabrics. You can then take pictures of yourself wearing the mock-up and we will adjust the pattern to get exactly the right fit and style.