Linen tailcoat

Linen Tails With Cravat

One of our specialties is custom tailcoats. And we are one of the few makers of bespoke tailcoats anywhere in the world.

Tailcoats haven’t been this in fashion since the beginning of the 20th century, and our modern tailcoats can fit every need. We can make tailcoats for almost every budget and in every style.
We can make Regency style tails or Edwardian dress coats, but we can also make these same projects out of fabrics like linen, that are perfect for outdoor weddings in hotter climes.
We can also provide custom made-to-measure shirts and vests to accompany our tailcoats, whether you are going for an early 20th century white tie look, a 1960s Sergeant Pepper’s look, or a Regency “Mr. Darcy” look.

With a Double-Breasted Vest

The photos with this posting show a recent project in which we made linen tails and pants for a wedding at a 19th century armory on an island (with accompanying double-breasted vest and silk cravat) another linen tailcoat (with raspberry silk cravat and 19th century style wing collar shirt from cotton jacquard) and a slubbed sateen tailcoat (with double-breasted vest) made for a Santa Monica beach wedding.

A Wedding In Santa Monica

Every detail and fabric can be custom picked, from the shape of the collars to the length and shape of the tails. For most of our wedding suits we custom fit them using a muslin (a rough cotton mock-up of the suit), thus guaranteeing a perfect fit.
Contact to get started on your own pieces today.
Here are some pictures of a suit that Lianna and I designed awhile back. I wanted to make a suit that was similar to Victorian seaside and reefer suits, but that had a slightly more updated and modern fit.
The fabric I ended up choosing was a silk matka. This tweedy raw silk fabric (blended in this case with wool and viscose) had a herringbone weave and the look was just right for a seaside style suit but was also something that I could wear on the right occasions all year round.Suit Matka Suit
For the lining, I chose an Asian brocade, which was in keeping with the Victorian theme and style of the suit but also had a “fun and casual” feel to it.
The styling of this suit is unique in so many ways. The button-through pockets, especially the button-through breast pocket, were details that I hadn’t seen on suits newer than the 1930s. The high square notched collar was also something that I hadn’t seen on any modern suits.
The inspiration for some of these features was the white reefer suit pictured at the right. This suit is in the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum (and is featured in this book).
Most double-breasted suits today have peak lapels (and I am not sure how this convention started) but the notch lapel on this suit is both thoroughly Victorian and rather mod (I can almost, but not quite see this suit as a product of 1960s London).
This is the type of project that we do best. A piece steeped in historical reference but also modern. A piece that will quickly be recognized as a product of thought, design and taste.
Notched-Collar Double-Breasted Seaside Suit
Contact us to have us start work designing a suit for you.
The fit (which we test with a cotton muslin) is guaranteed.
Notch-Collar Double Breasted Waistcoat in Paisley

Notch-Collar Double Breasted Waistcoat in Paisley

This is one of the waistcoats that we designed to go with our early Victorian double-breasted tailcoat style.

Tailcoat with Silk Vest

We wanted a vest that would cut away straight at the hem, exposing a few inches of the waistcoat fabric when the coat was closed.
The result has proven popular both with our formal/wedding/tailcoat customers and those who want something with a bit of steampunk flair to wear out with jeans or a pair of slacks to loft parties and clubs.
The version in the first picture is one of our favorites. The fabric is an iridescent rayon brocade with a paisley design and green copper buttons. The fabric is alternately red, burgundy, wine, and brown depending on the angle at which you see it from. The vest shown with the tailcoat is made from a very fine silk brocade, also with a paisley design.

Double-Breasted Vest Open

The beauty of these vests is that one can really alter every detail. For example, we can make the same style of vest, but in a single-breasted version, or with a peaked lapel or notched (triangular hem). Another thought would be to make a shawl style collar in a contrast fabric.From the Side
Brocade Double-Breasted vests generally run about $248 when you send us your measurements or $295 with a muslin version to ensure a perfect fit (recommend when ordering the piece for a wedding or with a muslin fit suit).