1920s Style Sports JacketFor daytime outdoor wear, plaid is supreme.
Whether you are at a wedding, the museum, or just headed out for brunch with your friends, a plaid sport coat or vest is ideal.
The look is much less uptight than an evening look in black, and much less of a purely “business” look than navy.
Because so many weddings today are in outdoor settings, plaid (along with seersucker and sporty tropical wools) has become one of our most popular looks for grooms.
In such a setting, a plaid is simply a more sophisticated option.red plaid jacket
A plaid also provides the opportunity to coordinate with the wedding colors and the setting.
Each piece that we make is completely custom made.
You choose the colors and the look and we work with you to design the perfect piece.
Our jackets include beautiful handwork details and hand prick-stitched lapels.Custom Plaid Jacket
They are cut to fit you precisely.
You send measurements (which are easy to take at home) and we cut and sew muslin mock-ups for you to try on.
You send us a few digital pics and your comments and then we revise the piece to fit you perfectly.
The pictures show some of our most recent plaid outfits.Brown Glen Plaid 3pc Suit
The first set of pictures shows a gorgeous 3pc plaid outfit where all of the pieces are coordinated to provide an amazing look.1920s style jacket cuffs
The jacket is cut from a brushed flannel fabric with red, brown and aqua as the primary colors in the plaid.
The vest is cut from a burgundy flannel with a vintage workingman’s style and the pants are cut from an iridescent wool with elements of brown, blue, and green.
The jacket has our signature sporty 1920s breast pocket, and sportsman’s cuffs.
The result is a jacket that draws upon some of the richest traditions in sportswear.
The pink and brown jacket (shown here are the autumn wedding that it was created for) is an example of how when the colors are well chosen even a very bold plaid blends in and compliments its surroundings.
vegan plaid suitIndeed plaid functioned as an early version of camouflage and is still the choice of many traditional sportsmen.

The medium greyish brown suit shows a much more subtle plaid.  This fabric is a lightly brushed very fine glen plaid wool with multiple tones of brown and ivory.

This suit was cut for a groom who also wanted to be able to wear the suit to many work related events in the legislative world.

Glen Plaid VestWe designed a suit with subtle western touches.  The jacket has early 20th century style cuffs (which we cut on the bias for maximum effect), a ticket pocket, and a decorative handwork buttonhole on the lapel.

The vest has a matching bias cut Western style yoke.  But overall the suit has a very modern cut and is youthful and trim.

The charcoal and maroon check suit pictured shows an exception to the thought that plaid fabrics are primarily for daytime wear.

A small check like this one, although still quite sporty, has a more indoor look and can be great for business or for evenings out.

This suit was made for a jazz musician to wear while playing in the evening and while conducting business by day.

Overall, the suit combines mod and Victorian details to create an impression that is unique and very contemporary.  This jacket also has sportsman’s cuffs which can be easily rolled up when playing an instrument.

While all of the other suits shown here are cut from wool, this suit was cut from a cotton blend as the customer is a vegan and prefers not to wear any animal products.  The inner canvas and buttons are also animal product free.

The final look is a vest and pant outfit that draws upon the sporting looks of the Edwardian era.

This outfit is made from a wool/silk blend with a rich and complex glen plaid.  The back of the vest is cut from tan linen that keeps you feeling dry in the summer heat.

The vest is cut with a wide pointed shawl collar that wraps around the back of the neck and the pants are cut with a wide 1920s style cuff.

This suit was made for summer and fall weekends, brunches and BBQs when something awesome and unique was needed, but when it seemed too hot and stuffy to wear a jacket.

All of our pieces are handmade one at a time here in our studio in Denver, Colorado.

So if you are thinking about a suit, jacket, or vest, please contact us so we can sketch some ideas for you and put together some swatches.

We make pieces for customers all over the world.

To contact us, send an email to AJ (aj@denverbespoke.com).

Black Pinstripe 3pc SuitEvery suit that we make is unique and made for an individual client.
We don’t have 5 or 10 or even 500 designs.  Prohibition Era Suit
For every suit that we make, we start with the client and his own sense of style.
We ask him where he will wear the piece.
How often he will wear it.  How much he wants to stand out or blend in.
We ask him what kinds of motions he will be making, whether he will be dancing or reaching across a desk or sitting on a barstool with his jacket buttoned.
Wedding Pinstripe SuitCrimson Paisley LiningAnd then we mine the rich history of menswear for details from the past that can be dragged into the present and recreated to fit within the thick context of his individual life.
We do not set out to create something new.
Action Back JacketBut the distinct individuality of each human person gives birth to newness.  1930s Style Pinstripe Suit
But this newness is never merely superficial or contrived.
It is instead filled with meaning; it carries its past within it; it is purposeful.
This post showcases some of our unique recent pieces.
Many of the pictures show a black pinstripe suit that we made recently. 
This suit combines details from many eras to create a suit that is perfect for business, pleasure,—and getting married in.
The fabric is a gorgeous wool twill with bright white stripes.
Mod Navy SuitMany of the details of the piece are borrowed from more sporty and casual suits of earlier eras.  Slim Lapels Suit
The pleats in the back above and below the back belt on the suit give the suit an “action back”.
This keeps the suit feeling slim while allowing for lots of extra movement in the back when driving, operating a mouse, or shuffling papers around on a desk.
The hip pockets are hacking flaps, which make for easy entry and comfortable slouching, but they are further accessorized with buttons which help to contain items of importance when the jacket is tossed upon a bed.
The shapes of the pocket flap and the cuffs are in one of the more interesting and distinct nineteen teens/early 20s styles and give the pieces a slight aura of dandyism despite the business-like orientation of the pieces.
The jacket and the vest are cut with peak lapels and are single breasted.  Like all of our “1909 Bespoke” suits, this jacket is finished with hand pick-stitching and distinctive vintage handwork tacks.
We also made the shirt, tie, and the tropical wool wedding gown shown, and always enjoy the chance to make as many pieces as possible for a special event or performance.
Daytime Formal Wear SuitThe next suit is almost completely different.  This piece, cut from a more finished black and navy basketweave tweed, is an utterly fitted “Mod” piece that has more of a 1960s look to it.Tan Herringbone Suit
This jacket is styled with a wide upper collar but narrow lapels.  It has traditional hacking flap pockets with a ticket pocket and is finished with crowsfoot tacks on the pocket flaps and a simple handworked buttonhole on the lapel in navy.
Double Breasted Herringbone Formal VestThe jacket has 2-button functional cuffs sewn with 30 ligne horn buttons for a more Mod look.
These buttons, like the buttons on the jacket, are a brown, rather than navy horn, all of which adds to the deliberate retro look of the piece.
The pants are slim “boot cut” low-rise pants with L-shaped jean pockets.  This detail gives the suit a sporty look and allows for a highly fitted seat.
L-shape pockets are also excellent for holding your keys versus standard slash pockets should you decide to take a rest on the grass.
The third suit (a tan herringbone flannel) is a unique take on daytime formalwear.  With this piece we wanted to do something that had the formality of a tuxedo but would work for daytime and outdoor events.
Grey Pin Stripe SuitWe wanted something that felt a lot more modern than a morning coat, but still felt pretty traditional. The design combines some Gatsbyesque 1920s details with a “space-age” 1960s look.
The lapels on the vest are made from a silk duppioni in cream, and the handworked boutonnière on the jacket is in a slightly contrasting tan.  The pockets have an angle-cut hacking flap.
The result is what we think of as “Garden Party” formal.
The next suit is in a classic silver pinstripe wool.  It is “tropical weight” with a dry hand.  All of this makes for a piece that is highly breathable.
The customer was looking for a suit for traveling, and a quite matte fabric like this has excellent wrinkle resistance.3pc Pinstripe Suit in Silver
The pants are based on a favorite pair of boot cut jeans that the client mailed to us.  This allowed us to get the ideal fit that he wanted and to make sure that the piece looked good with his cowboy boots.
Although some books on “dress etiquette” prescribe a vest that always covers the pant waistband, we went with a Western cut for this that would prominently display the client’s belt buckle in the notch of the vest hem.  The jacket also has cuffs, which are easily rolled up when feeling hot.
The final suit in this listing is cut from a gorgeous 2-ply wool pinstripe.
Navy Pinstripe 3pc SUitThe client wanted a suit that would work for business but also a suit that didn’t feel stuffy or basic and could be worn for special occasions.
The style that we ended up designing is a classic 2-button business suit, but with a Mod-style angled cutaway hem and pointed flap pockets.
This pocket style was found on many early 20th century sportswear jacket styles and on some Western and 1970s styles.
Incorporating a flap like this into a modern suit creates a piece that utterly resists the look of an “stuffy old man” business suit, while otherwise retaining the classic and traditional look.
If you are considering a suit, please drop me a line via email (aj@denverbespoke.com) and we can talk more.  
All of these suits are “muslin fit.”  Which means that we cut and sew cotton mock-ups of the suit and mail these to you to try on.  You send us your feedback and also digital pics; and we analyze the pictures to achieve a great fit that matches your personal send of style.  We make the majority of our suits for clients that are outside of Colorado and often outside of the US—But we love local clients as well.

The pictures of the wedding with the black pinstripe suit were taken by photographer Kevin Fung.  You can check out more of his amazing work here.

Sherlock BBC CoatEvery year we make some of the most amazing custom coats that can be found anywhere.  Sherlock Style 1920s Greatcoat
The coats are cut from gorgeous wools, cashmeres, camel hairs and alpaca fibers.
An overcoat or greatcoat is a wonderfully formal piece for an informal society.  
It is utilitarian, of course, and many of our coats are based on styles that were originally designed for military wear, but also fitted and highly-tailored and constructed in such a way that stylizes the body.
Unlike most other pieces of clothing, an overcoat is a piece that one might wear over 100 times a year.

Wool Twill Trenchcoat

Herringbone Overcoat

For clients who take care in their every day dress, no single piece of clothing is as important for making an impression—particularly for those of us who live in climates with colder winters.
All of our coats are made to order and every coat is unique.
You send us your measurements and a little bit about your general sense of style and the colors that you like and we start sketching ideas until we find the perfect look.
We mail you fabric swatches from all over the world until we find the perfect fabric.
Finally, we draft a completely unique pattern for you and cut and sew the coat based on this pattern.
The result is something that is completely yours and makes just the impression that you are hoping to make when you step out on the street.
The light brown herringbone coat is cut from a wool/cashmere herringbone fabric with thick horn buttons.  This style features a 1920s style breast pocket, a skirt with a triple back pleat, small peak lapels, a quilted undercollar, and hip welt pockets.
With a slim cut, this is a chic and modern interpretation of a trenchcoat or greatcoat.
The heather grey twill coat features classic trenchcoat style lapels and epaulettes, along with handwarmer pockets on the chest, patch pockets with flaps, and a double-breasted style with straight rows of buttons.
The fabric is a thick twill flannel.
This coat has a completely classic early 20th century trenchcoat styling.Navy Herringbone Trenchcoat
The next coat is made from a very heavy and plush Irish donegal tweed with flecks of white, silver, and black.
This coat features a zipper breast pocket and a patch pocket on the sleeve.  Note that this coat also is cut without cuffs, but with belts on the sleeves that allow the sleeves to be sucked in on the wrists.Inverness Coat
These details give the coat a more modern but also quite military look.  The coat is also cut with a full skirt and triple back pleat—details that add to the dramatic flair of the coat.
Black Melton GreatcoatThe navy blue coat with the purple lining is another example of a trenchcoat—-this one again in a gorgeous herringbone flannel.  A subtle navy color like this one, keeps the coat from blending in too much and lends a more fashionable look to the piece.
Recently, there has also been a lot more interest in caped coats as coats with capes have shown up more and more on the runway.
The black coat with the double cape is an historically inspired coat that takes many of the best details from the 18th century great coat and sharpens them up a bit to create an amazing and durable piece that is ready for the coldest weather.Men's Fur Collar Coat
The style is cut with hip welt pockets and uniquely shaped button tabs.
The fabric on this piece is a 20 ounce melton wool and the cape and body are lined in a heavy red satin.
The final set of photos show a camel hair Victorian-style fur shell coat (here shown with a faux fur).  The camel hair fabric is a felted plush fabric that is incredibly thick and warm.
Adding the faux fur on the entire facing of a double-breasted coat creates a piece that is incredibly warm and luxurious.  The entire facing and back collar has been pick-stitched by hand for added flatness and beauty.
We would love to design and make a coat for you.  We can’t take very many coat orders each year, so definitely order in advance of when you need it and discuss the timeframe with us so that we make sure that we have enough time to work your coat in.
To get started on a custom coat send an email to: aj@denverbespoke.com

Victorian Seersucker Vest

Waistcoats (or “vests” in good American English) haven’t been this in style for decades. Seersucker linen vest
Perhaps the recession made us all a bit more serious, and many of the guys out there who hoped to be boys forever decided to grow up.
Or perhaps we all just decided to think a bit more about history and a bit less about what was new, when future prospects seemed to dim.
But while vests have come back in style, attractive, interesting, and idiosyncratic vests are still absent from the stores.

1920s Style Vest

You can find a basic vest, but can you find a vest that someone spent some time designing?
We can design and make a one-of-a-kind vest that is completely designed to fit your body and your life.1920s Boardwalk Empire Vest
Victorian Melton VestOur waistcoats are drawn from the history of fine men’s dress but propelled forward into modern life through taste, judgement, and a selection of the best modern materials.
Our goal when we design is to take details from greatest pieces crafted over the past centuries and renew them by placing them in the context of contemporary life.Navy Victorian Vest
The white seersucker vest with the stand-up collar, wide lapels, and silver buttons, for example, is almost identical in style to a vest from the 1700’s that is in the V&A museum.
But when made up in the right fabric, with just the right proportions it does not look out of place at a summer picnic or garden party.
The most distinct detail on this vest is the forward sloped shoulder seams, that wrap the linen backs of the vest over onto the front.
Western VestThe grey pinstripe vest is cut extra long for a slim early 1920’s look and is inspired by the same period in which the show Boardwalk Empire is set.Pinstripe Western Vest
The heavy navy blue melton vest was inspired by a book on Victorian explorers of the Nile region that I had been reading and all of the wonderful paintings of the explorers.
I wanted a vest that I would be able to wear for work without getting destroyed with pockets that could hold all of my gear, and this was the result.

Photo By welovepictures.co.za

The vest is lined in cotton twill and is self-backed  —the perfect vest for working with your hands or repairing machinery.

The two Western style vests in the listing were designed in a similar frame of mind.  It is easy enough to find a Western style vest, but hard to find one that doesn’t seem like a costume.

With Austro-Hungarian Military Buttons

The heathered brown wool vest was designed for a 1950s style wedding in Hawaii, and I wanted something that would be both retro and Western but with a completely different sensibility than you would find if you were going line dancing.  
The grey pinstripe vest is almost identical.  Here, the Western yoke almost disappears into the pattern of the stripes.
This vest was also made for a wedding, but this one here in Colorado.  The fabric is an extremely breathable, open weave, tropical wool.
The dark grey vest with silver buttons has an early 20th century cast.  The buttons are vintage Austro-Hungarian military buttons and the front fabric is a mix-stripe flannel wool.  The result is a hip and youthful vest that draws on the well of history.
The wool windowpane vest pictured was made for a wedding in South Africa and is paired with a pair of trendy low-rise pants that we crafted and a Liberty print skinny tie that we made.  A beautiful plaid is ideal for an outdoor summer wedding (where black should generally be avoided).
The last few pics show some shots from my own wedding (and you can expect to see more of these pics soon).  When we design and make all of the pieces for a wedding (vests, shirts, hats, jackets, pants, dresses, ties, etc), the results are amazing.  Handmade Vests and Waistcoats
(Feel free to check out our women’s store for more pictures of our dresses: www.DenverDressmakers.com)
The picture of the bride and her father shows a brown gabardine vest with a green embroidered collar.  The groom’s father is shown in an off black vest with brown pinstripes (made from superfine wool) with brown wool pants, and a green cotton sateen shirt.  His vest is cut with a breast pocket that sports a cotton print pocket square.
The groomsman (in white) sports a silk matka vest with duppioni on the collar, welts, and back.  And the groom (in greens and browns) is wearing a suit that is cut from an Italian wool sateen.
All of these vests are just samples of our work.
Contact us by email (aj@denverbespoke.com) and we will get to work designing a vest just for you.  You tell us a bit about yourself, and we will send you sketches and swatches until we find the perfect fabrics and style for your events and the life that you lead.
We make vests for customers all over the world.  So wherever you are we can deliver to you.

The initial set of engagement photographs and the final set of wedding photos are by amazing Denver and Fort Collins Colorado area photographer Sarah Christine Photography (http://www.sarahchristinephotography.com/) be sure to check out her work and to choose her to photograph your wedding.