Patch Pocket Double-Breasted Reefer Suit

On an overcoat or peacoat, a double-breasted style can serve to keep the wind out. It can make a significant difference as to whether you stay warm and dry.

But on a suit jacket, the traditional role of a double-breasted style is to waste fabric and buttons. The first purpose of the double-breast is to express a certain decadence, to say that one prefers to have more…

A double-breasted jacket stands opposed to puritanism and Protestant simplicity. Throughout history, the double-breasted jacket has served to symbolize the aristocrat, the decadent artist, the well-off gentleman and the “greed is good” Wall Street banker.

Double-Breasted Tailcoat with Covered Buttons

Classic Peak Lapels on a Double-Breasted Houndstooth Suit

A secondary use of the double-breasted style is that of bringing to mind military dress.

Much military clothing over the last several centuries has been double-breasted, partially, no doubt, because of the desire to stay warm in the elements, and partially because a double-breasted style is ideal for showing off extra rows of brass buttons, braid, and medals.

Double-breasted styles go in and out of fashion depending on the spirit of the age. The more austere and modern the prevailing spirit, the more the double-breasted style seems conservative, wasteful, unnecessary. But the more decadent the spirit, the more that the style charms, feeling more luxuriant, rich, and manly.

Chic, Clean, and Single-Breasted.

The double-breasted style, with a few tweaks, can transform from a Mod look to an Edwardian look. And from the dress of a poet, to that of a banker.

The single-breasted style needs no such introduction, of course. It doesn’t require an explanation the way that a double-breasted jacket does.

As the single-breasted style is the most standard jacket style, it is more flexible. The hem can be shaped from crisp and straight to youthful and cut away.

No doubt most customers will always prefer a single breasted jacket simply because it is less remarkable. Particularly so long as the age is one that values function and clean lines.

Plaid Snap-Brim TrilbyOur hat obsession has been heating up lately.
So these are likely the first of many hat styles that you will see on here as samples of our custom work.
(Silk top hats will be next)!
The beauty part of having us make a hat for you is that we can use the exact same fabric for the hat that we did for a vest, a jacket, or a pair of pants.
Both of the hats in the pictures were made from wool suiting fabrics that we had left over from projects.

Cavalry Twill Wool Snap-Brim Fedora

The grey is an amazing cavalry twill, and the other hat and pants are made from an ultra soft plaid worsted wool. We can make hats from any type of fabric you would like.

The grey hat in the pics is a soft fabric fedora with a crown that is relatively high in the front and plaid ribbon trimming that flares out at the back.
The plaid hat is a trilby, which is basically a snap brim fedora with a smaller brim, that is structured with buckram and wire for a highly crisp look.
Wool Fedora HatBoth of the pieces are finished with a handmade and hand sewn bias binding around the edge of the brim.
linen tailcoatWe can make tailcoats for women as well, and as with our men’s tailcoats, we can pretty much do anything that you might be looking for.
For some of our custom tails, we have appliqued strange images, from vinyl insects to Victorian floral cottons.
For others, we have shortened the tails or added corset style detailing to the back.
We can make the coats with bell sleeves, with 3/4 sleeves, or with dramatic cuffs.
Just let us know what you are looking for and where you might like to wear your coat and we can work together to design a piece just for you.
Contact A.J. - – to get started designing your custom tailcoat now.