Smoking Jacket Tuxedo

It is time to look for something fresh.

Something, dare I say, fun.

The old formalwear is dead and gone.

After decades of being stuck in an endless repeat, formalwear is back to what is was in the earlier 20th century and before:

A chance to show distinction and individuality. Charm.  Even a sense of humor.

A man either knows who he is or he doesn’t.  And the man who knows who he is is less concerned with rules than with expression.

Whether you are attending black tie events on a regular basis or looking for something unique to wear to your wedding, choosing black and white tie attire is a chance to examine your tastes, your personality, and the things that you appreciate.Shawl Collar Brocade Tuxedo

Paisley Brocade Smoking JacketLooking fashionable is always about looking to tradition and finding the elements that are most relevant to the present.

In the images attached to this post, we looked variously to the Victorian smoking jacket, the jacket cuffs of the 1920s, mid-20th century resort dinner jackets, the fitted pants of the cavalry man, and military double-breasted waistcoats.

The result is a little bit of the gentleman.  A little bit of the rogue.Black Dragon Brocade Vest

Ready for a wedding.  And for the party after the wedding.

The first jacket is cut from a napped chenille brocade with silk velvet lapels, cuffs, and pocket welts.

The jacket is paired with a wool gabardine rocker pant with a velvet tuxedo stripe and a silk velvet topper trimmed with cock feathers.

A pointed back collar and pointed cuffs, give the piece a bit of extra character.

The jacket is utterly fitted with a frock waist seam that gives it a slight hourglass look.

The next tuxedo pictured is cut from 11oz wool gabardine in navy with heavy silk grosgrain lapels and 1920s style cuffs.

The jacket is shown with a silk brocade vest in a double breasted style with a high neck and a trouser with a tuxedo braid on the outseam.

But these pieces are just examples of what we can do.

All of our tuxedos are completely custom made for each client, starting with unique sketches that we do based on your thoughts and sourcing the finest fabrics from around the world.

Most of our tuxedos are “muslin fit.”

This means that we cut and sew cotton prototypes of the garments and mail them to you.  Then you send us digital pictures and your comments and we fine tune the patterns and look to suit you perfectly.

We make suits for clients who are looking for something distinctive all over the world.

Contact us to discuss your custom thoughts and ideas.

I have a book of Edwardian patterns from 1907 in which the author refers to the frock coat as “our splendid inheritance from our ancestors”.
Even in that age, the author lamented the modern choice of the less fitted sack coat over the slim-waisted frock.

Photo by Jagger Photography

Today only British royals seem to wear frock coats on a frequent basis.
But nothing could be more appropriate for a wedding than a cutaway or morning coat like the one pictured.
The morning coat is the daytime equivalent of the dress coat or tailcoat, and cuts away quickly from a tailored front suit jacket to rounded tails. This morning coat is made from linen, lined in cotton, and accompanied by a splendid brocade vest.
We can also, of course, make double-breasted frocks (i.e. “Prince Albert Frocks”) like the one worn by Taffy (the center figure in the etching), as well as frock overcoats like the double-breasted surtout, or the single breasted newmarket. If you can dream up a frock coat, from ultra modern, to classic, to seampunk Victorian, we can make it
Contact A.J. for more information: aj@denverbespoke.com