The Basic Straight Leg Flat Front Pant

Choosing the right pant fit and leg shape is one of the most important parts of getting the right look in a suit.

Do you want to look more youthful, slim, and eager?

The Skinny Leg "Rocker" Fit

Or is your style more one that connotes power and solidity?

Is your style more traditional or is it more daring?

In terms of recent fashion there are two competing trends to look at.  The first is the “skinny jeans” trend that has been going on for the past 5-10 years.  To a younger guy, a pant just doesn’t fit unless it is tight.

Cary Grant in a Wide Leg Pant

“Old men” might want a pant that comes up closer to the navel, but lots of younger guys prefer a pant with an ultra low rise similar to women’s pants.

A pant from H&M aimed at young men.

The second (and contrary)  trend is a return to the classics of the early 20th century.  This means a return to a higher-waisted and often wider leg pant.

Men who are interested in this trend tend to reject the youthful “dressing down” looks of the 90s and 00s—instead of looking younger, one wants to look “like a grown-up” after the fashion of golden age and silent film stars.  In addition to 1930s-era suiting, many men who look toward this trend find inspiration in classic denim and workwear.

A Full Wide Leg Flat Front Pant

We can, of course, make pants in both styles—-or even a hybrid of the two styles.

A Slim Tapered Tuxedo Pant

Perhaps the main thing to understand about pants is that, like all human clothing, the idea is to stylize the figure and the question is what each style means.

For some men, for example, the skinny leg style just doesn’t work.  This is particularly the case with athletic men who ride a bicycle to work or do frequent squats.

The style ends up failing on men with muscular thighs because the ankles and calves end up looking too skinny (and even fragile!) in comparison to the thighs.  The initial impression is that the ankles might shatter under the weight.  Going with a wider leg inevitably seems like a better fit, while a skinny style just feels too tight and off balance.

A 1920s Style High Waistband

Similarly, on men with a larger belly, the slimmer leg can give a top-heavy “muffin top” look to the suit which is always unfortunate.

Our "Jean Fit" Dress Pant--Slim Fit but Bootcut for More Athletic Shapes

On the other hand, for men who are very slim and tall with narrower shoulders, one inevitably wants to make the pant legs thinner.  If the jacket has fairly narrow shoulders and a narrow waist (which is the case on men with a smaller chest size), a wider leg pant throws the look off balance.

Overall, one wants to pick a pant style that fits with one’s individuality.

If you want to convey solidity and authority and to look like Cary Grant, one should choose a wider leg pant.

To look young and eager, a slimmer leg is better.

But the pant is designed to stylize the body—-and choosing a look that flatters your individual body type is important as well.

We make all of our pants and bespoke suits one-at-a-time to fit each client’s body and style here in our studio in Denver, Colorado.  Find out about our muslin fitting and how we can fit clients around the world.

1920s Tweed VestWe are famous for our 1920s style vests.
The 1920s were a high point for waistcoats.1920s Tweed Vest
The vests of the period contain all of the classic details that would become more codified in the 1930s.
Linen Back Tweed VestBut in this earlier period there is still a wonderful flexibility and richness in style.
The images show some of our favorite 1920s style vests with emphasis on the “Workingman’s Style” pieces.  
Scottish Tweed Vest

Tweed Workingman's Vest

These pieces—that we make from heavy weight tweeds and melton wools—are perfect for an active lifestyle.Tweed Workingman's Vest

The pockets hold your tools (or memory sticks), the fabrics don’t rumple or crease, and the styles can be cut with linen backs for the ultimate breathability and comfort.
Moreover, each of our bespoke suits and vests is made one-at-a-time here in our studio in Denver, Colorado.
Not only do we take care to make sure that each piece is a work of art, but we can work with you to cut the vest exactly to your measurements and to pick the perfect style and fabric for you.
1920s Style Herringbone VestThe classic fabrics we use—which are often woven by hand in Scotland and Ireland–are built the way that fabrics were meant to be and make up into garments that weigh twice as much as made-in-Asia pieces where the only concern is making sure that the garments pack flat and weigh as little as possible for overseas shipping.
The process of making one of our classic “Denver Bespoke” vests, begins when you contact us by email (aj@denverbespoke.com) or through our Etsy shop (www.machetensons.etsy.com) to tell us a little bit about your sense of style and how you will be wearing the waistcoat.
Green Melton Workingman's VestThen we sketch up a vest just for you.

With A Custom Cap

The piece can be identical to something we already offer, or something totally and completely new.
Add or remove pockets, change the shape of the lapels, the fabric of the back or belts, the number of buttons—-work with us to get the design that is perfect for the way that you dress.

Next we send you a selection of fabrics and we keep looking until we find the fabric that is right for you.  

We can get thousands of fabrics for the vests.  So if you know that you want a flecked herringbone tweed in a cranberry color, for example, just let us know and we can likely find this for you.
We can also make many other garments.  So if you want a matching pant, fedora, or workingman’s cap, just let us know and these pieces can be created in virtually any style to match your vest.
Contact me (aj@denverbespoke.com) to talk more.
Custom Denim BlazerWe specialize in custom tailored suits and overcoats.
But we love to make vintage-style sportswear as well.Denim Blazer
Our Editions ‘36 pieces are constructed one-at-a-time from authentic heavy weight woolens and cottons to create pieces with the same durability that garments had in the 1930s.
The pieces are totally unstructured and quite fitted with high armholes for extra movement.
We can also add back pleats and gussets for “an action back” with even more movement, depending on the activities you plan on doing while wearing the jacket.
We can also make jackets from waxed cotton (for those who want a waterproof jacket).  Wool Shirt Jacket
Wool Shirt JacketWe wax the cotton in house, starting with a blend of beeswax and paraffin and gorgeous cotton fabrics that are woven in the US from American cotton.
These pieces are perfect for use as rugged workwear, hunting and fishing, or for keeping warm during a commute.
I originally designed these pieces so that I could wear an amazing looking jacket for meeting with clients, and then turn around and start sewing or repairing a machine without needing to take off my jacket.
waxed cotton blazerWaxed CottonBecause each piece is custom made, you can choose each and every detail as well as the fabrics.
We can make pieces with notch lapel, a peak lapel, a convertible collar—just let us know what you might like and we can sketch this for you.Railroad Denim Duster
Most of these jackets are made unlined with both serged and felled seams similar to a denim jacket.
Railroad Denim DusterBut we can make the pieces with french and satin-bound seams for those who like a more lux look or with a full lining for a slightly higher price.
Corduroy Frock CoatThe pics show some of our blazers, shirt jackets, and dusters.
The dusters are constructed using the same method as the lounge and shirt jackets but feature ultra slim frock-style waist seaming.Corduroy Duster
Like all of these jackets, they are made to be worn for activities of all types and can be cut with a duster style vent, armhole or center back gussets, and the details of your choice depending on how you will be wearing the pieces.Plaid Hunting Jacket
Plaid Hunting JacketThe dusters pictured are made from gorgeous wide wale American woven cotton corduroy.
A corduroy is the perfect fabric for a unlined jacket, with lots of sheen and also durability and wrinkle resistance.
Another great choice is a denim.  The railroad denim/ticking stripe jacket has wonderful vintage look.
We can also make any style of our unlined jacket in a plaid.  Plaids can be matched to your surroundings and break up the human silhouette for great traditional camouflage.

Striped Denim Blazer

Combing outerwear and more business style details is a great way to dress well while living a more active lifestyle.
Many of the details on our jackets are taken from the 1920s and 1930s when wearing a sportcoat was a must even in active situations.
To order a sportswear jacket, just send us an email with some information about what you might like (aj@denverbespoke.com).
Or check out our Etsy Store, where some of the styles are for sale as made-to-measure pieces.
Once we hear from you, we are always willing to start sketching up a design that contains all of the elements you might like.
1920s Style Sports JacketFor daytime outdoor wear, plaid is supreme.
Whether you are at a wedding, the museum, or just headed out for brunch with your friends, a plaid sport coat or vest is ideal.
The look is much less uptight than an evening look in black, and much less of a purely “business” look than navy.
Because so many weddings today are in outdoor settings, plaid (along with seersucker and sporty tropical wools) has become one of our most popular looks for grooms.
In such a setting, a plaid is simply a more sophisticated option.red plaid jacket
A plaid also provides the opportunity to coordinate with the wedding colors and the setting.
Each piece that we make is completely custom made.
You choose the colors and the look and we work with you to design the perfect piece.
Our jackets include beautiful handwork details and hand prick-stitched lapels.Custom Plaid Jacket
They are cut to fit you precisely.
You send measurements (which are easy to take at home) and we cut and sew muslin mock-ups for you to try on.
You send us a few digital pics and your comments and then we revise the piece to fit you perfectly.
The pictures show some of our most recent plaid outfits.Brown Glen Plaid 3pc Suit
The first set of pictures shows a gorgeous 3pc plaid outfit where all of the pieces are coordinated to provide an amazing look.1920s style jacket cuffs
The jacket is cut from a brushed flannel fabric with red, brown and aqua as the primary colors in the plaid.
The vest is cut from a burgundy flannel with a vintage workingman’s style and the pants are cut from an iridescent wool with elements of brown, blue, and green.
The jacket has our signature sporty 1920s breast pocket, and sportsman’s cuffs.
The result is a jacket that draws upon some of the richest traditions in sportswear.
The pink and brown jacket (shown here are the autumn wedding that it was created for) is an example of how when the colors are well chosen even a very bold plaid blends in and compliments its surroundings.
vegan plaid suitIndeed plaid functioned as an early version of camouflage and is still the choice of many traditional sportsmen.

The medium greyish brown suit shows a much more subtle plaid.  This fabric is a lightly brushed very fine glen plaid wool with multiple tones of brown and ivory.

This suit was cut for a groom who also wanted to be able to wear the suit to many work related events in the legislative world.

Glen Plaid VestWe designed a suit with subtle western touches.  The jacket has early 20th century style cuffs (which we cut on the bias for maximum effect), a ticket pocket, and a decorative handwork buttonhole on the lapel.

The vest has a matching bias cut Western style yoke.  But overall the suit has a very modern cut and is youthful and trim.

The charcoal and maroon check suit pictured shows an exception to the thought that plaid fabrics are primarily for daytime wear.

A small check like this one, although still quite sporty, has a more indoor look and can be great for business or for evenings out.

This suit was made for a jazz musician to wear while playing in the evening and while conducting business by day.

Overall, the suit combines mod and Victorian details to create an impression that is unique and very contemporary.  This jacket also has sportsman’s cuffs which can be easily rolled up when playing an instrument.

While all of the other suits shown here are cut from wool, this suit was cut from a cotton blend as the customer is a vegan and prefers not to wear any animal products.  The inner canvas and buttons are also animal product free.

The final look is a vest and pant outfit that draws upon the sporting looks of the Edwardian era.

This outfit is made from a wool/silk blend with a rich and complex glen plaid.  The back of the vest is cut from tan linen that keeps you feeling dry in the summer heat.

The vest is cut with a wide pointed shawl collar that wraps around the back of the neck and the pants are cut with a wide 1920s style cuff.

This suit was made for summer and fall weekends, brunches and BBQs when something awesome and unique was needed, but when it seemed too hot and stuffy to wear a jacket.

All of our pieces are handmade one at a time here in our studio in Denver, Colorado.

So if you are thinking about a suit, jacket, or vest, please contact us so we can sketch some ideas for you and put together some swatches.

We make pieces for customers all over the world.

To contact us, send an email to AJ (aj@denverbespoke.com).