Wool and Silk Morning SwallowtailEvery year, many of our clients choose to get married in tails.

Sometimes in classic white tie, sometimes in a swallowtail look or in one of our military or steampunk styles.

Tailcoats and morning coats have deep roots in tradition, but in the modern era can be some of the most unique and expressive pieces in menswear.

In recent decades, women would show up in wedding gowns and flamboyant ball gowns and men would show up in rented black suits.

Such is a poor way to honor the special events in one’s life.

But recently, we have seen more and more tailcoats at red carpet events as men have become more interested in dressing well.

Traditionally, the black tailcoat with a black double striped trouser and a matching white pique vest, shirt bib, and bowtie was the ultimate evening formalwear.

Morning Coat for WeddingFor the daytime, a black or charcoal morning coat—a frock coat that sometimes has a pronounced swallowtail or cutaway shape—with a charcoal striped pant, and a contrast vest, with either with a contrast formal cravat or bowtie was the way to go.

But dressing well is not so much about following the rules as it is about using tradition to express your individuality.

The pics show one of our most recent morning suits.

The cut of the coat is a hybrid of a swallowtail coat with the sharper, more angled shape of classic tailcoats.

The front shape is continuous along the placket, but then cuts away sharply back into a square tail.  It is my feeling that this shape feels more modern than a classic swallowtail.square tails tailcoat

All of the pieces tie in various shades of purple.
Victorian Peak Lapel Tailcoat

The tailcoat is cut from a black wool, but with silk lapel facings that wrap around to the wool edge which features rows of decorative buttonholes.  The silk is iridescent—charcoal grey woven with subtle purple.Purple Morning Coat with Awesome Cuff

The vest––cut from pale purple silk––features classic peak lapels and a low neck.

And the pant is made from a traditional morning stripe charcoal wool––but here the stripes are purple as well this time, a bold purple that is only visible when close.  Classic Morning Coat

The cut of the pants is a classic wide-leg pleated style with wide cuffs.Classic Morning Coat for Weddings

Finally, the 6″ top hat is cut from a subtle purple heather flannel that reads as charcoal grey at first glance with trim to match the morning coat.

We made everything in the pics except the shoes and the ivory handled walking stick (which belonged to my great great grandfather!).Colorado Bespoke Suits

So if you are considering a tailcoat, a morning coat, a top hat, or a vest definitely Contact Us so that we can talk more.

All of our pieces are custom made to your measurements, and with the full suits, we actually cut and sew mock-ups of the pieces to mail to you to try on, ensuring a perfect fit in the final garments.

Last year, we made suits for events all across the world.

So where ever you are located, we can make a suit for you.

Each piece is handmade one-at-a-time here in our studio in Denver, Colorado.

The Basic Straight Leg Flat Front Pant

Choosing the right pant fit and leg shape is one of the most important parts of getting the right look in a suit.

Do you want to look more youthful, slim, and eager?

The Skinny Leg "Rocker" Fit

Or is your style more one that connotes power and solidity?

Is your style more traditional or is it more daring?

In terms of recent fashion there are two competing trends to look at.  The first is the “skinny jeans” trend that has been going on for the past 5-10 years.  To a younger guy, a pant just doesn’t fit unless it is tight.

Cary Grant in a Wide Leg Pant

“Old men” might want a pant that comes up closer to the navel, but lots of younger guys prefer a pant with an ultra low rise similar to women’s pants.

A pant from H&M aimed at young men.

The second (and contrary)  trend is a return to the classics of the early 20th century.  This means a return to a higher-waisted and often wider leg pant.

Men who are interested in this trend tend to reject the youthful “dressing down” looks of the 90s and 00s—instead of looking younger, one wants to look “like a grown-up” after the fashion of golden age and silent film stars.  In addition to 1930s-era suiting, many men who look toward this trend find inspiration in classic denim and workwear.

A Full Wide Leg Flat Front Pant

We can, of course, make pants in both styles—-or even a hybrid of the two styles.

A Slim Tapered Tuxedo Pant

Perhaps the main thing to understand about pants is that, like all human clothing, the idea is to stylize the figure and the question is what each style means.

For some men, for example, the skinny leg style just doesn’t work.  This is particularly the case with athletic men who ride a bicycle to work or do frequent squats.

The style ends up failing on men with muscular thighs because the ankles and calves end up looking too skinny (and even fragile!) in comparison to the thighs.  The initial impression is that the ankles might shatter under the weight.  Going with a wider leg inevitably seems like a better fit, while a skinny style just feels too tight and off balance.

A 1920s Style High Waistband

Similarly, on men with a larger belly, the slimmer leg can give a top-heavy “muffin top” look to the suit which is always unfortunate.

Our "Jean Fit" Dress Pant--Slim Fit but Bootcut for More Athletic Shapes

On the other hand, for men who are very slim and tall with narrower shoulders, one inevitably wants to make the pant legs thinner.  If the jacket has fairly narrow shoulders and a narrow waist (which is the case on men with a smaller chest size), a wider leg pant throws the look off balance.

Overall, one wants to pick a pant style that fits with one’s individuality.

If you want to convey solidity and authority and to look like Cary Grant, one should choose a wider leg pant.

To look young and eager, a slimmer leg is better.

But the pant is designed to stylize the body—-and choosing a look that flatters your individual body type is important as well.

We make all of our pants and bespoke suits one-at-a-time to fit each client’s body and style here in our studio in Denver, Colorado.  Find out about our muslin fitting and how we can fit clients around the world.

Custom Denim BlazerWe specialize in custom tailored suits and overcoats.
But we love to make vintage-style sportswear as well.Denim Blazer
Our Editions ‘36 pieces are constructed one-at-a-time from authentic heavy weight woolens and cottons to create pieces with the same durability that garments had in the 1930s.
The pieces are totally unstructured and quite fitted with high armholes for extra movement.
We can also add back pleats and gussets for “an action back” with even more movement, depending on the activities you plan on doing while wearing the jacket.
We can also make jackets from waxed cotton (for those who want a waterproof jacket).  Wool Shirt Jacket
Wool Shirt JacketWe wax the cotton in house, starting with a blend of beeswax and paraffin and gorgeous cotton fabrics that are woven in the US from American cotton.
These pieces are perfect for use as rugged workwear, hunting and fishing, or for keeping warm during a commute.
I originally designed these pieces so that I could wear an amazing looking jacket for meeting with clients, and then turn around and start sewing or repairing a machine without needing to take off my jacket.
waxed cotton blazerWaxed CottonBecause each piece is custom made, you can choose each and every detail as well as the fabrics.
We can make pieces with notch lapel, a peak lapel, a convertible collar—just let us know what you might like and we can sketch this for you.Railroad Denim Duster
Most of these jackets are made unlined with both serged and felled seams similar to a denim jacket.
Railroad Denim DusterBut we can make the pieces with french and satin-bound seams for those who like a more lux look or with a full lining for a slightly higher price.
Corduroy Frock CoatThe pics show some of our blazers, shirt jackets, and dusters.
The dusters are constructed using the same method as the lounge and shirt jackets but feature ultra slim frock-style waist seaming.Corduroy Duster
Like all of these jackets, they are made to be worn for activities of all types and can be cut with a duster style vent, armhole or center back gussets, and the details of your choice depending on how you will be wearing the pieces.Plaid Hunting Jacket
Plaid Hunting JacketThe dusters pictured are made from gorgeous wide wale American woven cotton corduroy.
A corduroy is the perfect fabric for a unlined jacket, with lots of sheen and also durability and wrinkle resistance.
Another great choice is a denim.  The railroad denim/ticking stripe jacket has wonderful vintage look.
We can also make any style of our unlined jacket in a plaid.  Plaids can be matched to your surroundings and break up the human silhouette for great traditional camouflage.

Striped Denim Blazer

Combing outerwear and more business style details is a great way to dress well while living a more active lifestyle.
Many of the details on our jackets are taken from the 1920s and 1930s when wearing a sportcoat was a must even in active situations.
To order a sportswear jacket, just send us an email with some information about what you might like (aj@denverbespoke.com).
Or check out our Etsy Store, where some of the styles are for sale as made-to-measure pieces.
Once we hear from you, we are always willing to start sketching up a design that contains all of the elements you might like.