Mongolian Lamb Collar Great Coat

Every coat that we make is built from scratch and based on a custom pattern that is drafted to fit the needs of the client.
Add a pocket, change the button placement, add a leather undercollar, remove the cuff or just slightly change the profile of the cuff to get the look you want—we can do virtually anything and will sketch ideas until we get the look just right.
One of our specialties is the full length heavy wool coat.

A full length coat is like nothing else for staying warm and looking stylish—the one and the other are both so important to the military heritage of the wool overcoat—-saving one from freezing on winter campaigns and allowing one to look good while riding at the head of the troops.

Mongolian Lamb Wool Melton Greatcoat greyMany of the fabrics we use are literally the same fabrics in the same weights from the same mills that made fabrics for the British campaigns against Napoleon and for the Union in the American Civil War.

These heavyweight meltons and doeskins don’t pill and hardly wear.

They were designed for an age in which life was short but a good coat would last for several generations.

The grey coat shown in this listing is made from a 25oz wool melton with a Mongolian lamb collar.

The piece is cut with vintage frock or paletot seaming that allows for a highly shaped waist with a skirt that flares at the hips.

The pockets are Edwardian US Marine Corps style and this source of inspiration is repeated in the seamed on cuff detailing.Military Trenchcoats in Wool Melton

A narrow back belt and back box pleats complete the look.

Contrast details include white top-stitching, blue buttonholes, a blue undercollar, under pocket flap, and underbelt and a kidney (neck latch) with one grey and one blue side.Greatcoat Close-up

The best way to get started is to Contact Us with any thoughts and questions you may have.

At that point we can start sketching ideas and sourcing fabrics for you.

We can get virtually any type of outerwear fabric, leather, or fur.

And we can make a coat with the details inspired by any era.

Every year we make coats for clients located all across the world.

Once you realize that you don’t have to be cold to look awesome, your winter days will be transformed.

Smoking Jacket Tuxedo

It is time to look for something fresh.

Something, dare I say, fun.

The old formalwear is dead and gone.

After decades of being stuck in an endless repeat, formalwear is back to what is was in the earlier 20th century and before:

A chance to show distinction and individuality. Charm.  Even a sense of humor.

A man either knows who he is or he doesn’t.  And the man who knows who he is is less concerned with rules than with expression.

Whether you are attending black tie events on a regular basis or looking for something unique to wear to your wedding, choosing black and white tie attire is a chance to examine your tastes, your personality, and the things that you appreciate.Shawl Collar Brocade Tuxedo

Paisley Brocade Smoking JacketLooking fashionable is always about looking to tradition and finding the elements that are most relevant to the present.

In the images attached to this post, we looked variously to the Victorian smoking jacket, the jacket cuffs of the 1920s, mid-20th century resort dinner jackets, the fitted pants of the cavalry man, and military double-breasted waistcoats.

The result is a little bit of the gentleman.  A little bit of the rogue.Black Dragon Brocade Vest

Ready for a wedding.  And for the party after the wedding.

The first jacket is cut from a napped chenille brocade with silk velvet lapels, cuffs, and pocket welts.

The jacket is paired with a wool gabardine rocker pant with a velvet tuxedo stripe and a silk velvet topper trimmed with cock feathers.

A pointed back collar and pointed cuffs, give the piece a bit of extra character.

The jacket is utterly fitted with a frock waist seam that gives it a slight hourglass look.

The next tuxedo pictured is cut from 11oz wool gabardine in navy with heavy silk grosgrain lapels and 1920s style cuffs.

The jacket is shown with a silk brocade vest in a double breasted style with a high neck and a trouser with a tuxedo braid on the outseam.

But these pieces are just examples of what we can do.

All of our tuxedos are completely custom made for each client, starting with unique sketches that we do based on your thoughts and sourcing the finest fabrics from around the world.

Most of our tuxedos are “muslin fit.”

This means that we cut and sew cotton prototypes of the garments and mail them to you.  Then you send us digital pictures and your comments and we fine tune the patterns and look to suit you perfectly.

We make suits for clients who are looking for something distinctive all over the world.

Contact us to discuss your custom thoughts and ideas.