Military Collar CoatWe love to make full length overcoats and trench coats.

Because let’s face it, the coat you buy at the store is barely a coat—it just looks like one.

The fabric is too lightweight.

It hardly covers your neck and it ends a few inches above the knee.  Chances are it weighs less than 1 pound (versus the 5-6 pounds of many vintage overcoats).

The fabric is probably blended with acrylic and will pill after a few wears.

If you want to stay warm or go out in the elements, you will probably end up with some type of ski jacket or nylon puffer.

But you can’t wear that with a suit and it is only fashionable on the slopes.Peak Lapel Military Trenchcoat

Our coats—to say the least—are real coats.  The fabrics are heavyweight wool meltons from 23 ounces up to 32 ounces (shockingly warm!) or handwoven Scottish and Irish tweeds that are literally made the same way they were 130 years ago.

The lengths and the collars are generous, and everything is intended for a lifetime of wear.

The navy blue coat with the red undercollar is cut from a gorgeous 25 ounce melton with bullhide neck straps.

This style is unique in that it features fully convertible peak lapels.

This means that the coat lapels can be buttoned all the way up to the shoulder and the top collar can be worn popped up or folded down like a shirt collar.  Alternately the lapels can be worn folded with the top collar popped around the neck.

The style features a back half belt, a waist seam, and tall seamed on cuffs.Neck Latch on Trench Coat
Trench Coat back and cuffs

Like all of our coats, this was custom made for a client.  When you contact us, we work to design a coat that includes all of the details and elements that you might like.

We can always get hundreds of amazing coating fabrics.

The next set of pictures shows a coat that we made from an amazing handwoven English tweed.  The color is a dusty red interwoven with a deep navy blue.

Tweed Trench Coat with GunflapThis coat features many of the classic trench coat elements like a gun flap, epaulettes, wrist belts, and a “kidney” to close up the neck.

Other elements include top-stitched seams, gold piping on the lapels and belts, and a curved back yoke.

Finally here are a few more takes on the immortal military trench coat collar.

M-1912 GreatcoatThe pic of the beige coat shows a coat that we made that is modeled after the M-1912 greatcoat that US Marines wore during WWI.

This particular coat is made from an incredibly heavy 32 ounce wool melton with a highly felted nap.1912 Greatcoat US Marines

Defiance Daniel Craig CoatThe lapels on this coat don’t fold down quite as much as on later trenchcoats, but the style is meant to be buttoned up all the way to the neck for a distinctly vintage look.

The next set of pics shows a greatcoat that we made with a collar cut from salt and pepper shearling lambskin.

The coat is cut from a gorgeous wool boucle with a concealed front button placket and a back belt that pleats in the waist.

The final pic shows a coat that we made from Navy Doeskin wool with a detachable sheared beaver collar.Sheared Beaver Collar Greatcoat

Doeskin is a gorgeous velvety napped wool that Hainsworth fabrics in the UK is famous for.

This company, which has been making fabric since the 18th century supplies the fabrics for the Royal Guard and we can supply their fabrics on request.

Each coat that we make is totally custom and can be made from pretty much any fabric you can imagine.

So if you want a real winter coat that will keep you warm in high fashion, just contact us and we can get started designing a coat for you.

Custom Denim BlazerWe specialize in custom tailored suits and overcoats.
But we love to make vintage-style sportswear as well.Denim Blazer
Our Editions ‘36 pieces are constructed one-at-a-time from authentic heavy weight woolens and cottons to create pieces with the same durability that garments had in the 1930s.
The pieces are totally unstructured and quite fitted with high armholes for extra movement.
We can also add back pleats and gussets for “an action back” with even more movement, depending on the activities you plan on doing while wearing the jacket.
We can also make jackets from waxed cotton (for those who want a waterproof jacket).  Wool Shirt Jacket
Wool Shirt JacketWe wax the cotton in house, starting with a blend of beeswax and paraffin and gorgeous cotton fabrics that are woven in the US from American cotton.
These pieces are perfect for use as rugged workwear, hunting and fishing, or for keeping warm during a commute.
I originally designed these pieces so that I could wear an amazing looking jacket for meeting with clients, and then turn around and start sewing or repairing a machine without needing to take off my jacket.
waxed cotton blazerWaxed CottonBecause each piece is custom made, you can choose each and every detail as well as the fabrics.
We can make pieces with notch lapel, a peak lapel, a convertible collar—just let us know what you might like and we can sketch this for you.Railroad Denim Duster
Most of these jackets are made unlined with both serged and felled seams similar to a denim jacket.
Railroad Denim DusterBut we can make the pieces with french and satin-bound seams for those who like a more lux look or with a full lining for a slightly higher price.
Corduroy Frock CoatThe pics show some of our blazers, shirt jackets, and dusters.
The dusters are constructed using the same method as the lounge and shirt jackets but feature ultra slim frock-style waist seaming.Corduroy Duster
Like all of these jackets, they are made to be worn for activities of all types and can be cut with a duster style vent, armhole or center back gussets, and the details of your choice depending on how you will be wearing the pieces.Plaid Hunting Jacket
Plaid Hunting JacketThe dusters pictured are made from gorgeous wide wale American woven cotton corduroy.
A corduroy is the perfect fabric for a unlined jacket, with lots of sheen and also durability and wrinkle resistance.
Another great choice is a denim.  The railroad denim/ticking stripe jacket has wonderful vintage look.
We can also make any style of our unlined jacket in a plaid.  Plaids can be matched to your surroundings and break up the human silhouette for great traditional camouflage.

Striped Denim Blazer

Combing outerwear and more business style details is a great way to dress well while living a more active lifestyle.
Many of the details on our jackets are taken from the 1920s and 1930s when wearing a sportcoat was a must even in active situations.
To order a sportswear jacket, just send us an email with some information about what you might like (aj@denverbespoke.com).
Or check out our Etsy Store, where some of the styles are for sale as made-to-measure pieces.
Once we hear from you, we are always willing to start sketching up a design that contains all of the elements you might like.
Sherlock BBC CoatEvery year we make some of the most amazing custom coats that can be found anywhere.  Sherlock Style 1920s Greatcoat
The coats are cut from gorgeous wools, cashmeres, camel hairs and alpaca fibers.
An overcoat or greatcoat is a wonderfully formal piece for an informal society.  
It is utilitarian, of course, and many of our coats are based on styles that were originally designed for military wear, but also fitted and highly-tailored and constructed in such a way that stylizes the body.
Unlike most other pieces of clothing, an overcoat is a piece that one might wear over 100 times a year.

Wool Twill Trenchcoat

Herringbone Overcoat

For clients who take care in their every day dress, no single piece of clothing is as important for making an impression—particularly for those of us who live in climates with colder winters.
All of our coats are made to order and every coat is unique.
You send us your measurements and a little bit about your general sense of style and the colors that you like and we start sketching ideas until we find the perfect look.
We mail you fabric swatches from all over the world until we find the perfect fabric.
Finally, we draft a completely unique pattern for you and cut and sew the coat based on this pattern.
The result is something that is completely yours and makes just the impression that you are hoping to make when you step out on the street.
The light brown herringbone coat is cut from a wool/cashmere herringbone fabric with thick horn buttons.  This style features a 1920s style breast pocket, a skirt with a triple back pleat, small peak lapels, a quilted undercollar, and hip welt pockets.
With a slim cut, this is a chic and modern interpretation of a trenchcoat or greatcoat.
The heather grey twill coat features classic trenchcoat style lapels and epaulettes, along with handwarmer pockets on the chest, patch pockets with flaps, and a double-breasted style with straight rows of buttons.
The fabric is a thick twill flannel.
This coat has a completely classic early 20th century trenchcoat styling.Navy Herringbone Trenchcoat
The next coat is made from a very heavy and plush Irish donegal tweed with flecks of white, silver, and black.
This coat features a zipper breast pocket and a patch pocket on the sleeve.  Note that this coat also is cut without cuffs, but with belts on the sleeves that allow the sleeves to be sucked in on the wrists.Inverness Coat
These details give the coat a more modern but also quite military look.  The coat is also cut with a full skirt and triple back pleat—details that add to the dramatic flair of the coat.
Black Melton GreatcoatThe navy blue coat with the purple lining is another example of a trenchcoat—-this one again in a gorgeous herringbone flannel.  A subtle navy color like this one, keeps the coat from blending in too much and lends a more fashionable look to the piece.
Recently, there has also been a lot more interest in caped coats as coats with capes have shown up more and more on the runway.
The black coat with the double cape is an historically inspired coat that takes many of the best details from the 18th century great coat and sharpens them up a bit to create an amazing and durable piece that is ready for the coldest weather.Men's Fur Collar Coat
The style is cut with hip welt pockets and uniquely shaped button tabs.
The fabric on this piece is a 20 ounce melton wool and the cape and body are lined in a heavy red satin.
The final set of photos show a camel hair Victorian-style fur shell coat (here shown with a faux fur).  The camel hair fabric is a felted plush fabric that is incredibly thick and warm.
Adding the faux fur on the entire facing of a double-breasted coat creates a piece that is incredibly warm and luxurious.  The entire facing and back collar has been pick-stitched by hand for added flatness and beauty.
We would love to design and make a coat for you.  We can’t take very many coat orders each year, so definitely order in advance of when you need it and discuss the timeframe with us so that we make sure that we have enough time to work your coat in.
To get started on a custom coat send an email to: aj@denverbespoke.com