Category: The Jacket

What Suits A Wedding? Down With the Black Suit?

Ten years ago more than 2/3 of pictures we would see from weddings would show the groom and the groomsmen, often outdoors and during the day, wearing black tuxedos. Not that there is anything wrong with this! “Class,” “Sophistication,” “Snobbery,” however—whatever you want to call it—generally decrees against wearing a black suit during the daytime […]


The Details are in Your Pocket

When opening a conversation with a bespoke tailor about a custom suit or sportcoat, one of the first questions you will be asked is “Do you have a preference on the pocket style?” A surprising number of men—even men who wear suits often—won’t have considered pocket styling before. This is for one of two reasons: […]


How Bespoke is Your Bespoke?

What does “bespoke” mean?  Are some suits “more” or “really and truly” bespoke and others “less bespoke” or “bespoke in name only?” To ask this question is to wade into controversy.  Especially when new businesses are popping up every day with custom suit offerings of various quality and customization. Literally, the word “bespoke” just means […]


Jacket Lapels

Lapel Styles Lapels on a suit coat are supremely non-functional.  One could, indeed, do without them entirely without changing the function of the suit in any way. But fashion begins to grow rich and strange at the very moment that function stops.  Indeed one might best think of a lapel as a type of “fetish.”  […]


Single or Double-Breasted?

On an overcoat or peacoat, a double-breasted style can serve to keep the wind out. It can make a significant difference as to whether you stay warm and dry. But on a suit jacket, the traditional role of a double-breasted style is to waste fabric and buttons. The first purpose of the double-breast is to […]

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