Black Pinstripe 3pc SuitEvery suit that we make is unique and made for an individual client.
We don’t have 5 or 10 or even 500 designs.  Prohibition Era Suit
For every suit that we make, we start with the client and his own sense of style.
We ask him where he will wear the piece.
How often he will wear it.  How much he wants to stand out or blend in.
We ask him what kinds of motions he will be making, whether he will be dancing or reaching across a desk or sitting on a barstool with his jacket buttoned.
Wedding Pinstripe SuitCrimson Paisley LiningAnd then we mine the rich history of menswear for details from the past that can be dragged into the present and recreated to fit within the thick context of his individual life.
We do not set out to create something new.
Action Back JacketBut the distinct individuality of each human person gives birth to newness.  1930s Style Pinstripe Suit
But this newness is never merely superficial or contrived.
It is instead filled with meaning; it carries its past within it; it is purposeful.
This post showcases some of our unique recent pieces.
Many of the pictures show a black pinstripe suit that we made recently. 
This suit combines details from many eras to create a suit that is perfect for business, pleasure,—and getting married in.
The fabric is a gorgeous wool twill with bright white stripes.
Mod Navy SuitMany of the details of the piece are borrowed from more sporty and casual suits of earlier eras.  Slim Lapels Suit
The pleats in the back above and below the back belt on the suit give the suit an “action back”.
This keeps the suit feeling slim while allowing for lots of extra movement in the back when driving, operating a mouse, or shuffling papers around on a desk.
The hip pockets are hacking flaps, which make for easy entry and comfortable slouching, but they are further accessorized with buttons which help to contain items of importance when the jacket is tossed upon a bed.
The shapes of the pocket flap and the cuffs are in one of the more interesting and distinct nineteen teens/early 20s styles and give the pieces a slight aura of dandyism despite the business-like orientation of the pieces.
The jacket and the vest are cut with peak lapels and are single breasted.  Like all of our “1909 Bespoke” suits, this jacket is finished with hand pick-stitching and distinctive vintage handwork tacks.
We also made the shirt, tie, and the tropical wool wedding gown shown, and always enjoy the chance to make as many pieces as possible for a special event or performance.
Daytime Formal Wear SuitThe next suit is almost completely different.  This piece, cut from a more finished black and navy basketweave tweed, is an utterly fitted “Mod” piece that has more of a 1960s look to it.Tan Herringbone Suit
This jacket is styled with a wide upper collar but narrow lapels.  It has traditional hacking flap pockets with a ticket pocket and is finished with crowsfoot tacks on the pocket flaps and a simple handworked buttonhole on the lapel in navy.
Double Breasted Herringbone Formal VestThe jacket has 2-button functional cuffs sewn with 30 ligne horn buttons for a more Mod look.
These buttons, like the buttons on the jacket, are a brown, rather than navy horn, all of which adds to the deliberate retro look of the piece.
The pants are slim “boot cut” low-rise pants with L-shaped jean pockets.  This detail gives the suit a sporty look and allows for a highly fitted seat.
L-shape pockets are also excellent for holding your keys versus standard slash pockets should you decide to take a rest on the grass.
The third suit (a tan herringbone flannel) is a unique take on daytime formalwear.  With this piece we wanted to do something that had the formality of a tuxedo but would work for daytime and outdoor events.
Grey Pin Stripe SuitWe wanted something that felt a lot more modern than a morning coat, but still felt pretty traditional. The design combines some Gatsbyesque 1920s details with a “space-age” 1960s look.
The lapels on the vest are made from a silk duppioni in cream, and the handworked boutonnière on the jacket is in a slightly contrasting tan.  The pockets have an angle-cut hacking flap.
The result is what we think of as “Garden Party” formal.
The next suit is in a classic silver pinstripe wool.  It is “tropical weight” with a dry hand.  All of this makes for a piece that is highly breathable.
The customer was looking for a suit for traveling, and a quite matte fabric like this has excellent wrinkle resistance.3pc Pinstripe Suit in Silver
The pants are based on a favorite pair of boot cut jeans that the client mailed to us.  This allowed us to get the ideal fit that he wanted and to make sure that the piece looked good with his cowboy boots.
Although some books on “dress etiquette” prescribe a vest that always covers the pant waistband, we went with a Western cut for this that would prominently display the client’s belt buckle in the notch of the vest hem.  The jacket also has cuffs, which are easily rolled up when feeling hot.
The final suit in this listing is cut from a gorgeous 2-ply wool pinstripe.
Navy Pinstripe 3pc SUitThe client wanted a suit that would work for business but also a suit that didn’t feel stuffy or basic and could be worn for special occasions.
The style that we ended up designing is a classic 2-button business suit, but with a Mod-style angled cutaway hem and pointed flap pockets.
This pocket style was found on many early 20th century sportswear jacket styles and on some Western and 1970s styles.
Incorporating a flap like this into a modern suit creates a piece that utterly resists the look of an “stuffy old man” business suit, while otherwise retaining the classic and traditional look.
If you are considering a suit, please drop me a line via email (aj@denverbespoke.com) and we can talk more.  
All of these suits are “muslin fit.”  Which means that we cut and sew cotton mock-ups of the suit and mail these to you to try on.  You send us your feedback and also digital pics; and we analyze the pictures to achieve a great fit that matches your personal send of style.  We make the majority of our suits for clients that are outside of Colorado and often outside of the US—But we love local clients as well.

The pictures of the wedding with the black pinstripe suit were taken by photographer Kevin Fung.  You can check out more of his amazing work here.

Classic Gabardine SuitWe are proud to be one of the few tailors in the US that makes garments from scratch in our workshop.
Most places that offer “tailoring” merely alter existing ready made garments.
Others offer made-to-measure suits by brands such as Tom James that are produced in centralized factories.
But we run a tailoring house on a different model.
If you wanted to understand the single biggest reason that men’s business attire has remained relatively frozen in time since the 1920s and 1930s, you need look no further than the gradual eclipse of the tailoring house by ready-made fashions.
At one point in time, everyone dressed differently.  Individuality and personality were bywords.
Pockets were shaped and placed to store the exact items that a given individual carried every day.
Pants and jackets were styled not by a mystical set of rules, but rather to flatter and to express.
But with mass produced suits, every style suddenly needed to appeal to 100,000 customers. A programmer was supposed to wear the same suit as an executive and the executive was suppose to wear the same suit as the programmer.
We make unique suits for unique people.
Because we can make every style of pocket, every style of waistcoat, can cut pants with an immeasurable number of fits.
Because we don’t have any standard rules or molds.  Because we make suits from any number of novel fabrics, we can offer a virtually infinite amount of choices.

Many of the projects that we take are those that have been turned down by other tailors because  the factories that they contract with are unable to handle anything that deviates more than a hair from the mass model.

Unlike most tailors, we understand the needs of creative professionals.
We will work with you to design a suit from the ground up that expresses what you need to express at the events that you attend.
The navy suit pictured in this posting is a recent suit that we made for a local customer who had been unable to find a pant style that he liked at the shops.  He wanted a suit that was traditional, but not in the way that “traditional” suits tend to be.

He very graciously allowed me to snap a few pictures for our site.
The suit is made from a 10.5 oz gabardine that is extremely durable and perfect for travel.  With hand pick-stitching on the lapels and handmade buttonholes on the jacket and the waistcoat.

The grey flannel suit is another recent business suit project.  This piece was made from a gorgeous pinstripe flannel fabric.
All of our suits are made using a couture muslin technique.  For this process we make the suit first in a rough cotton muslin.
Then we either mail this to you and have you send us pictures of yourself trying it on, or fit it on you in person if you can make it to Denver.  We analyze the way that the muslin hangs and create a new pattern based on what we learn.
This allows us to get a perfect fit in person or long distance.
Contact A.J. (aj@denverbespoke.com) to get started designing a custom suit.

Silk Herringbone Tweed Suit

Most suits are made from wool.  And for a good reason.
Wool is wonderfully durable, crisp, wrinkle-resistant. Silk Herringbone Tweed
It can be felted to become weather resistant, brushed to hold in heat, or given an open weave to breathe and wick in the heat.
We love wool, but sometimes we want a bit of novelty and one of the places we turn is to silk.
Just as some people mistakenly identify wool only with itchy and bulky hand-knit sweaters, silk is often pictured only as a light and shimmering satin.
But silk textures can differ completely depending on how the silk is processed and the fabric woven.
The pics show a couple of our most recent silk suits.
The tan and slate blue herringbone suit was made for a recent wedding on the coast of Scotland.
We designed the suit with classic seaside suit details with a hint in the top-stitched pocket style of a 1930s sport jacket.

But like all of our pieces we strove for a look that would feel timely.
The fabric for this suit is a thick silk tweed.
It is utterly dry to the hand and without luster.  In this state, silk serves as a kind of warm season tweed.
Unlike a wool tweed which is much more of a fall/winter fabric that insulates, a silk tweed breathes beautifully.Cobalt Blue Suit
The cobalt suit is closer to what most people think of when they think of silk.
It has lustre.  It shines.  The fabric is a silk duppioni.
The word duppioni comes from the Italian for “two pods” and the unique texture of the duppioni lies in the fact that it has many irregularities or “slubs” that are formed in the places where two silk worm pods were woven touching each other.
This fabric is particularly interesting in that the weave is iridescent with both blue and purple yarn.  This gives the fabric extra depth.
Of course, a silk duppioni suit is not a work suit.  Traditionally a duppioni suit would be worn in the tropics or on a cruise.
We made this suit for a wedding in Arizona where bright saturated colors look amazing in the sun.

But a silk duppioni suit like this, especially one with an iridescent tonic weave, is a great suit for the summer nightlife in any city.
If you have a unique suit in mind, we can make it.
Contact A.J. (aj@denverbespoke.com) to get started working on a custom piece.
All of our suits are muslin fit—we make a cotton prototype of the suit to fit on you before we even touch the fabric.  You send us digital pics of yourself wearing it, and we can customize the pattern to look great on you.

The pictures of the wedding in Scotland are by Red Row Studio (www.redrowstudio.etsy.com) so if you are getting married in Scotland or want to buy some fine art prints, check out the wonderful work.