This is one of the waistcoats that we designed to go with our early Victorian double-breasted tailcoat style.
We wanted a vest that would cut away straight at the hem, exposing a few inches of the waistcoat fabric when the coat was closed.
The result has proven popular both with our formal/wedding/tailcoat customers and those who want something with a bit of steampunk flair to wear out with jeans or a pair of slacks to loft parties and clubs.
The version in the first picture is one of our favorites. The fabric is an iridescent rayon brocade with a paisley design and green copper buttons. The fabric is alternately red, burgundy, wine, and brown depending on the angle at which you see it from. The vest shown with the tailcoat is made from a very fine silk brocade, also with a paisley design.
The beauty of these vests is that one can really alter every detail. For example, we can make the same style of vest, but in a single-breasted version, or with a peaked lapel or notched (triangular hem). Another thought would be to make a shawl style collar in a contrast fabric.
Brocade Double-Breasted vests generally run about $248 when you send us your measurements or $295 with a muslin version to ensure a perfect fit (recommend when ordering the piece for a wedding or with a muslin fit suit).
This jacket is a piece that I made for myself from some leftover Italian wool suiting that we had. It is inspired by 1920s and 30s motoring and sports jackets but has somewhat more modern style lines.
The beauty part of our bespoke jackets lies in the fact that each and every detail can be hand-picked.
In this case, I made flap-pockets and added bias-cut inset panels in the front. I also did away with the lower pockets that I was considering, reasoning that having welt pockets at the waist would only encourage me to slouch, and that, in general, men are more becoming when they stick their hands in jean or trouser pockets.
No doubt each of us would choose different options. Below is an alternate version of the jacket that I designed, with a wider collar, no front style lines, and pleated front patch pockets. This piece also has a top-stitched back pleat rather that style lines at the side back.
The jacket I made for myself is also unlined, which saves in terms of price and makes the piece better for wear in the spring and during hot summer nights. But for a customer who hoped to wear the jacket deeper into the winter, I would undoubtedly recommend a lining.
If a customer writes us about a style, often we can forward on many ideas or perfecting the piece in the form of sketches, vintage photos, and fabric ideas.
Here is a page from the 1936 Sears catalog (borrowed from this book) that shows numerous possibilities for jacket details including back belts, pleats for fitting and numerous welt pockets
Any of these ideas can be incorporated into a piece that is hand-tailored for your body and climate. As with the jacket, that I made from the striped fabrics, we can also “update” and seamlessly blend numerous modern touches with any or the vintage details for a piece that is completely modern and classic.
To get started designing your own custom piece, contact us now.